BIRDS OF BALI

We had to see the birds in Bali, therefore the Bali Bird Park was on our “to-do” list.

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Like the other wildlife, you get to interact with the birds and they are very close. A few shots to enjoy. This outings configuration was the Canon 5D Mark III with the 70-200mm f/2.8.

I love the colors of tropical birds, like these Wreathed Hornbills.

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This Australian fellow is a bit homely. Sorry buddy.

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Lots of water birds.

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Vibrant.

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This bird can kill you. Dead. Meet the Cassowary.

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He/she (I cannot tell) was unimpressed by my camera.

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I found the red .. intestine looking markings on the back of their necks rather disturbing.

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At the entrance to the park are a few parrots. I was watching this fellow and it is almost like he looked at me and decided to show off. He slowly maneuvered upside down and then flipped his legs into this position. This is not a natural parrot position.

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And of course, a tourist experience isn’t complete without a “birds hanging on me” photo. The bright red parrot pooped on my shoulder (smile).

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Worth visiting. Thanks for dropping by.

BALI RICE FIELDS

Bali is a lush and beautiful country and one of the “must do’s” is to stop at a small town with the rice fields new Ubud. You look out on the river flowing through the terraced fields .. and all you see is green. As viewed through a Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 28-70mm f/2.8, mostly shot in handheld HDR.

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You hike down one side, cross a bridge and hike back up to the other side. Along the way there are a few farmers collecting “donations” .. donation 1 was at the bridge.

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It is quite steep.

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Row upon row of rice, with carefully crafted ledges around each terrace to keep the water in.

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And a simple mode of getting the water from level A to level B.

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What is at the top of the hill?

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Nothing but a great view of this spider, who is almost impossible to spot .. even after I edited the photo to bring out highlights and confirm that she/he was the focus point.

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A great hike.

LIVE LIFE

I just read this quote:

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page”. Saint Augustine

I never grew up thinking this way. I never dreamed of living in Tokyo or London. It was not an aspiration.

I never left Canada until 23.

It isn’t that I didn’t think it was possible, it just wasn’t how I was brought up. Make money, buy a house. That is how I thought.

Granted, we didn’t grow up with the money to take trips beyond a camping trip or the occasional trip to a close city so experiences did not show me what was possible. Spark imagination.

I am lucky to have married someone who opened my eyes to what is possible and why. The rich tapestry of other cultures, foreign foods and people. Of taking a risk and living through the good and bad of the experience.

Smart dude that Augustine.

BALI ART

We stopped at an Art shop while touring in Bali. We bought a piece (a rice field), and I am sure that we overpaid. You always leave wondering how much should I have paid? But  we loved the piece so such is life. The price of art is all relative.

The good thing is that we were first in and their culture is all about making sure that the first people buy as they believe that it influences the day. If you buy, they will have a good day. If you don’t buy, it will be a bad day.

As I bought, he let me take a few photos of the shop. As Galungan was quickly approaching, they we decorating everything.

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A distinctly Balinese form of art (that we did not buy, but was interesting to look at) below. Reminds me of a “where is Waldo?”

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In Bali, temples are everywhere and people who have the wealth, invest in family temples within their homes. At the art shop, they were decorating their temple for the festival.

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Parasols are a common decoration.

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The Balinese go all out.

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A wonderful time of the year.

EATING AT MT BATUR, BALI

For the Mt. Batur part of our Bali trip we did not hike the volcano (another time), but we had lunch at the base. It is a beautiful sight.

The view from the restaurant.

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Glad we didn’t hike it. We would have gotten soaked. A storm was on the way in.

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The rain hit just was we stopped for fruit at this stand.

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The colors were spectacular, even under a very grey and growing black sky.

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If you are in Bali, make sure that you try all of the different fruits. Some will surprise you and you probably won’t see them again.

PLANNING TWO DAYS OF TOURING IN BALI

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It is hard to plan a trip to a country that you have never been to when you live in a country where no one speaks English. We asked questions, read reviews and researched through Tripadvisor and Lonely Planet  .. with a final itinerary as follows …

We booked a car with Sila Tours (Highly recommended. They are not tour guides, but $55 a day for a new van and a driver is fantastic) and set out a rough goal of seeing these things:

  • Mt. Batur, the volcano.
  • Rice fields
  • Bird Sanctuary near Ubud
  • The Monkey Forest
  • A few temples, with Gung Kawi and the Water Palace being the two options
  • An Elephant reserve

This is more than we normally do as we definitely do not subscribe to the “as much as you can” philosophy. We like to do less, but really enjoy where we are. As most of these were nature trips, the learning/history element (which is time consuming) was not as big a factor.

Many people stay in Ubud, we stayed in Nusa Dua which meant driving through the traffic laden streets. In other countries that would be an issue, but not in Bali as the countryside is fascinating. I was enthralled looking out the window as we went from town to town. The people, the shops, the never ending temples on every street corner and at every house. Fascinating. I would have loved to spend more time wandering through small village streets.

My only mistake was that I should not have relied on the driver to help us order the trip over the 2 days that we toured as their sense of time and directions is a little deceiving. When I would ask “how far to the next place” I always got the answer “30 minutes”. 30 minutes later I would ask for an update and get “20 more minutes”.

If you are heading there, enjoy. Great place.

SACRED MONKEY FOREST, BALI

We pretty much missed the cherry blossoms in Tokyo as they are early this year and we were out of the country.

But it is worth it. A few photos from the Monkey Forest in Bali. Glad I put the 70-200m f/2.8 on the Canon 5D Mark III for this walking adventure.

A few close-ups. I was very close.

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Just hanging out.

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Very close.

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They are cheeky little fellows.

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WHEN YOU GET BIT BY A MONKEY IN BALI

They are cute. Yes. But what happens if you get bit while trying to get them to sit on your shoulder?

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I post this as a public service to others who will go through that stress if they get bit.

On our trip to the Monkey Forest we had a bit of a fright with a monkey bite. One of the problems with the internet is that it is filled with opinions. From what I can ascertain from the International SOS clinic and reading, here are the facts:

  • Cases of rabies in Bali: All are in a different district than the forest. There have been 17 deaths, and they all appear to be attributed to rabid dogs. Beware of the dogs.
  • According to the Doctor at International SOS, he treats travelers who have been bitten at the forest daily and has not had any follow-up from international doctors who have had issues with patients. He has received no notice of a rabid monkey being found in Bali or of a patient being confirmed with rabies. Nothing.

Online forums are filled with “I was bit by a monkey” questions, panic and forum answers, with nothing of value. The reality is that if you have not been vaccinated for rabies, the protocol according to the World Health Organization is:

  • Wash the bite are as soon as possible aggressively with soap, water and an anti-bacterial if you have it. This has a significant impact as anything that is transmitted would be done via saliva into the blood stream and it can reduce the chances of transmission by up to 80%.
  • Seek medical attention right away.
  • A shot of rabies immunoglobulin is given based upon body weight. This is an immediate immune boost to the system to provide rabies anti-bodies. A shot is given around the scratch/bite mark and the rest administered normally. This can be quite painful depending on where the bite/scratch is. Many people do not get this shot as it is very expensive (I have seen estimates ranging from $1500-2000). Again – that is why we always travel with insurance.
  • Rabies vaccines is administered at day 0, 3, 7 and 14. These vaccines are like a standard inoculation shot. The old days of the 12 inch needle are long behind us. A small shot into the shoulder.
  • A standard anti-viral (We received Aciclovir) is prescribed from day 0. It is 2 pills, 5 times a day for 14 days. The alternative is Valaciclovir 3 times a day. We had a difficult time acquiring Valaciclovir in Bali (due to the Hindu holiday), but were able to switch to the much easier medicine when we returned to Tokyo.

Full WHO document here.

The moral of the story – what would we do differently this time?

  • We have all of our vaccines except rabies. The only time that you really need to worry is if you get bit and I would only get the vaccine if going to somewhere remote. The thing you need to watch out for is dogs.
  • Always have insurance.
  • Should have checked it out that same night on the web. Had it been more serious, we would have.
  • We would absolutely do the Monkey Forest again. Just remember stay calm, watch your fingers, don’t make threatening eye contact and buy lots of bananas .. from the locals. Support the locals.

Hope it helps someone else “calmly” determine what to do.

THE TURTLE SANCTUARY

Another overdue Grand Cayman post. As previously mentioned there isn’t a lot to do on Grand Cayman, but there are a few places to see including the Turtle Farm.

We took the “full tour” which includes access to all parts of the sanctuary/farm and the ability to swim in their interactive pool – which is a small winding man-made lake with a few turtles and fish in it. I will admit that after touring the place we were about to leave disappointed because we didn’t really understand it. That is when we bumped into the head keeper who asked us if we had questions. We had a lot – and he was very open to answering and giving us greater insight into why the farm exists.

He started to explain their conservation focus, how they are hand raising sea turtles, marking and tracking them and freeing thousands back into the wild (31,000 to date). They are doing some fantastic conservation and research work, which made the price worthwhile. In fact, the government is running it at a loss to keep up the work – the tourism angle simply offsets some costs and reduces the loss.

The turtles themselves are beautiful creatures. The first exhibit to greet you is the mature turtle pond. This picture does not provide scale, but these are HUGE sea turtles. They must be 3 feet long and there are a lot of them. In speaking with the keeper, their ages range and it is difficult for them to know exactly how old some are, but a few are in their 70’s.

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Throughout the facility they have holding tanks for turtles at different sizes. At this set of tanks you are allowed to pick the turtles up (if you can catch them, they are very fast).

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All over the farm you will find different wildlife running around or in the aviary, relaxing.

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And of course, more than a few iguanas.

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In the end, a worthwhile trip if you find someone to talk to.

TO KISS A STINGRAY

 

I have not been posting trip adventures as the winter this year was filled with beaches and water football. Not a lot of adventure. For March break we headed down to Grand Cayman for a break and much of the same, beach, swimming, great food and water sports.

The island does not have a lot to do, beyond diving and Stingray city. It was windy so the water was a little bit cloudy, but a fascinating experience. You jump in the water and stingrays come swimming from every direction, acclimatized to boats ready to dole out raw fish for them. They are beautiful animals, gliding through the water and gently nudging into you.

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We went with Dexter’s tours and I was happy to see that the different boat captains work together to care for the stingrays. While we were there another captain came over to Dexter and asked him to help him with one of the stingrays who had a hook in its mouth.

As I mentioned, not a lot to do in Grand Cayman, but this is well worth it.

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BAHAMAS

 

Or as some like to call it, the tax shelter. We spent a few days there a week ago and were fortunate to have great weather and a lot of fun as a family (Although Atlantis is run down and way over priced … if it were not for the slides).

I walked to Starbucks each morning and looked at the Mary Jean II. On one occasion, the yacht next to it had slipped out to sea and I took this photo on my phone. It may not look it, but it is one BIG yacht (60m). According to the brochure they are renting her out for a pittance, $500K per week. I hope that comes with food.

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DIFFERENT

 

I have been an absent blogger over the past month, in big part due to travel. I am at World Mobile Congress this week. It is my 6th time in Barcelona and as always, it is a very interesting show.

Three observations/experiences from yesterday:

1. It is the first time I have had to take a passport to the gym. Plus, Spaniards look at you funny if you walk the street in gym clothes in February (they don’t know I am Canadian).
2. If you are pitching a partner on your products and the merits of working together closely, the person on your team at the front of the screen should not be doing email on his laptop. We were all looking at him …..
3. Even the most mundane of Spanish buildings are prettier and have more character than 90 percent of our buildings. Just your run of the mill store fronts …..

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TURKS AND CAICOS

 

We took a holiday down to the Turks and Caicos in June and concluded that it is one of the most beautiful places in the world. As with all of these smaller countries, they are not without their fair share of issues. The financial collapse due to a corrupt President who thought he was a movie star, the reversal of $5M island sale to a group of developers with a few ‘consulting fees’ paid on the side (Island valued at $176M), a tourism based society that is struggling due to the slow economic recovery and Britain’s take over of the island’s government due to the corruption. In one story of excess, a fellow told me about the company who took over the building of the bankrupt Mandarin resort; they recovered enough usable wood and quality discarded building materials in the site’s dump to build a full workers camp.

I personally like the article Failure to follow the rules at the heart of TCI’s problems for so clearly stating the obvious:

The gap between the law and practice in the main pillars of government in the Turks and Caicos Islands was what facilitated the corruption, Transparency International has revealed in a new report. The global anti-corruption watchdog’s country report revealed weaknesses in the system, which are not dissimilar to some raised in the Cayman Islands by the auditor general’s office and others recently. Transparency International said important mechanisms providing transparency in governance, such as the Register of Interests’ rules were unobserved, accountability instruments like the Public Accounts Committee did not function effectively and ministerial breaches of public service regulations and encroachment on the independence of the public service were common.s

The findings of the watchdog were probably cut and pasted from their findings on Africa, the emerging soviet bloc, large chunks of Central America, South America and of course parts of Asia.

All of the above were well outlined in the Bloomberg article Caribbean Hangover which is a fascinating look into the President, the spending, the jet set lifestyle and how the subsequent real estate and economic collapse have hurt the island.

That aside, it is beautiful and we will go back. We stayed at The Veranda and had a spectacular week after a very wet and cold Canadian spring. A few photos below; The first is we snorkelled their reef, which keeps the water smooth and calm. It is spectacular. I cannot wait till we start scuba as a family.

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Of course, snorkelling was so much more enjoyable thanks to the Lasik.

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A few photos from Iguana island, an island reserve filled with … iguanas.

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Unfortunately you cannot walk around the island as the majority of the boardwalk has been destroyed and there is no money to replace it (One less flight from the ousted President’ would have paid for it … but priorities!). It was destroyed a few years ago in a hurricane.

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Iguana tracks.

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This 3 foot long Iguana let me get very close.

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A storm on the way.

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I asked what these were. Old ropes that were used to hold large cruise ships in place. They now go to a purpose built port.

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It does not get much prettier than this.

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On our way back from the reef, Jo Jo the local dolphin joined us. I had never seen a dolphin so close ….

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One last shot, the view from the roof top restaurant.

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A beautiful island to visit. I wish that they would join Canada.

CHERNOBYL

 

I have added Chernobyl to my bucket list after reading my 3rd article on the location in Wired. There is something uniquely interesting about the wildlife and nature retaking such a vast area.

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Granted, I would not stay long or eat from the local wild bird menu.

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Tim Seuss has a fascinating set of photos on the area around Chernobyl. Reminds me of the movie Legend …

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Definitely on the list.

CAPE SPEAR NEWFOUNDLAND

 

I was in Newfoundland this week and between meetings we had a little bit of time. This is my 3rd trip to ‘The Rock’ in the last two years and I wanted to see an iceberg, but they are not there yet. So my host was gracious enough to hop me out to Cape Spear, which was just minutes from our next client meeting:

Cape Spear, located on the Avalon Peninsula near St. John’s, Newfoundland, is the easternmost point in North America[1] (52°37’W), excluding Greenland (see Nordostrundingen). Unlike Semisopochnoi Island, Cape Spear is close to Blackhead, an amalgamated area of the City of St. John’s, about 1.86 miles (3 km) away. Cape Spear is traditionally considered to be the easternmost location in North America.

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The sun was shining, and as I am told, the wind was blowing lightly (It sure did not feel light as I gripped the handle to keep the car door from flying into the car next to me). It is a beautiful spot and awe inspiring. You can feel the power of the ocean, the wind streaking over the waves as they crash into the rocks. Standing there, you could see the water move back and forth, it looked cold and ominous. This sign says it all.

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I had a small camera with me and snapped off a few quick shots.

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I watched a coast guard ship moving back and forth outside the harbour. I only had one thought, that looks like a really cold job.

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Seagulls were everywhere. I took this short video of the gulls diving into the ocean to grab fish. I never knew that seagulls could dive.

Seagulls diving at Cape Fear Newfoundland

Cool place.

HOPKINS

 

One of the last posts on the topic of Belize. While there we stayed outside of a little town called Hopkins. I always find it interesting to see how other cultures live. In the case of Hopkins, it is on the beach and it would seem that agriculture and tourism are the primary industries. One thing we noticed, there seemed to be a ton of dogs wandering around. We read a few items that stated that there is a real effort being put in place to control the population (humanely).

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The local church is right on the beach.

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I was told that they have one police officer in town. I saw one on a bike later in the day. From their web site:

We have one constable who makes his rounds on a bicycle. This is largely because we are fortunate to have little or no crime in Hopkins. The police station is at the crossroads and easy to find.

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It is a quaint town and we found the locals very friendly. One local told us about the hurricanes that the town had suffered, the worst being Hattie in the 60’s that basically wiped the place out and killed a lot of people.

I don’t think I would want to be on the coast during a hurricane … but a nice place to visit on a sunny day.

CAVING AND HOLING

 

Our last Belizean adventure was a cave and blue hole expedition. Our first stop was St. Herman cave, a 1/2 mile hike from entrance to exit.

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You climb down a 180 foot long sink hole into the cave, with it’s huge opening and then into the cave you go.

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I have never been on a hike through a cave before and would describe it as dark, rigorous and very tight at times. At one point we turned off our lights to experience true darkness, so dark that you could not see the hand in front of our face.

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I laughed when I saw this sign. Wise words.

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It was a different experience, and thanks to our head lamps, full of unique rock formation sights and more than a few left over Mayan pots and dishes.

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After a rigorous hike, climb, scramble and crawl we resurfaced into the jungle canopy and headed over to a blue hole.

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You hear a lot about blue holes in Belize, the most famous being the Great Blue Hole – one of the top diving spots in the world. Another type of blue hole are sinkholes that are created when an underground river collapses.  After the long hike, we spent an hour swimming at Blue Hole National park. The water was as you would expect, a beautiful deep blue.

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A different day hike.

MAYFLOWER BOCAWINA NATIONAL PARK

 

Another memorable excursion was the hike up a waterfall in the Mayflower National Park followed by a trip to a blue hole. The hike was not for the faint of heart. Very steep, requiring ropes to pull you up many sections with very little breeze and crushing humidity. Our family loves this type of challenge.

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Along the way to the base of the falls we saw this print. A jaguar print. This was as close as we would get to one.

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It is amazing to listen to the guides share their home grown knowledge. We stopped and the boys tasted termites (high in protein, supposedly tasted like cucumber … I took the role of photographer, not taster). At a hole the guide grabbed a stick and poked and prodded until a agitated tarantula emerged (apologies, not sure what happened to the focus)

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These shots will give you an idea of the climb. With my camera, 2 lenses, video camera, water and towels, I figured I was lugging an extra 40lbs.

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After an hour and a half up, we arrived at the top of the waterfall. It was worth the hike. The water was cooling, clear and spectacular.

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The only downside on the hike was that we did not see much wildlife. A beautiful way to spend a morning.

HALF MOON CAYE

 

One of my favourite sights in Belize was a small island in the Half Moon Caye vicinity.  The island (which the locals simply call Bird Island) appears to have no hard land, and looks like a clump of trees rising from the water. And out of those trees swarmed hundreds and hundreds of birds.

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Home to two birds, the Red-footed Booby and the Frigatebird. It happened to be mating season for the Frigatebird, and the males were showing off their magnificent red breasts in hopes of attracting a mate.

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Some were luckier than others.

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The guides mentioned that the birds have a tough time building nests, as the twigs from the trees are difficult to break off so they must fly significant distances to acquire material … unless a boat and guide were near. He put the nose of the boat near the island, broke off a few twigs and started to throw them in the air causing a flurry of activity as the birds moved to grab the twigs for their nests.

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It appeared to be a harmonious relationship between the Bobby and the Frigatebirds, they sat on the branches often side by side.

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Which is interesting considering the Frigatebird’s reputation:

Frigatebirds are pelagic piscivores which obtain most of their food on the wing. A small amount of their diet is obtained by robbing other seabirds, a behaviour that has given the family its name, and by snatching seabird chicks. Frigatebirds are seasonally monogamous, and nest colonially. A rough nest is constructed in low trees or on the ground on remote islands. A single egg[citation needed] is laid each breeding season. The duration of parental care in frigatebirds is the longest of any bird.

It was an excellent day out.

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UNIVERSITY

 

While waiting in the airport in Belize I came across a brochure for the University of Belize. It offered the international experience that one would expect, with many eco related courses. If you check out their website, the marketing strategy to attract international students is pretty clear. I am not sure how effective the site is at encouraging parents to finance the experience.

After photographing the pelicans, I turned around and realized that the island of South Water Caye has a university too ….

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Perhaps they are linked with the Smithsonian research station one island over, which appears to be linked to the University of California. Not the worst way to spend a semester …

PELICANS OF BELIZE

 

The Belize reef system is 30+ KMs off the shore. Each day we would get in a boat and travel to either a dive or snorkelling destination, depending on your preference. As our boys are too young to scuba, we snorkelled a number of times. After the first snorkel, they would take us to a small island for snacks and a quick break before heading out again. The island was beautiful, with white sand beaches and clear blue water. Very Caribbean.

On our first trip out, a pelican kept hovering around. He was not afraid of us, and let me get very close (At one point I was arms length). A majestic bird.

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It is fascinating watching him take off.

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It felt like you blinked and he was away. These frames were taken over a few seconds.

XUNANTUNICH

 

The second stop on our Mayan Ruins tour was the 2nd largest site in the region, Xunantunich, or the stone lady:

Xunantunich (shoo-NAHN-too-nich) is a Maya archaeological site in western Belize, about 80 miles (130 km) west of Belize City (Latitude : 17.083 , Longitude : -89.133), in the Cayo District. Xunantunich is located atop a ridge above the Mopan River, within sight of the Guatemala border. Its name means "Stone Woman" in the Maya language (Mopan and Yucatec combination name), and, like many names given to Maya archaeological sites, is a modern name; the ancient name is currently unknown. The "Stone Woman" refers to the ghost of a woman claimed by several people to inhabit the site, beginning in 1892. She is dressed completely in white, and has fire-red glowing eyes. She generally appears in front of El Castillo; ascends the stone stairs and disappears into a stone wall.

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The guide told us a story that the site actually wasn’t called the Stone Lady by the Mayans. A recent discovery (everything is recent, they still have so much to uncover) found that the Mayan’s called it the Clay Mountain.

Getting to the site is an interesting experience, you cross on a hand cranked ferry. We were fortunate, as we arrived the tour buses from the cruise ships were leaving.

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I found the site breathtakingly beautiful and we were fortunate, there were very few people there (perhaps due to the intermittent rain and timing). The site is riddled with buildings, six plazas center the complex with 26 temples and palaces surrounding it.

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A class of students was leaving the site as we climbed the primary temple. I am going to guess they are in grade 11.

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As you can see by this shot, huge mounds remain. Inside those mounds are more ruins, unexplored and uncovered due to lack of funding.

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Next, the pyramid known as "El Castillo".

XUNANTUNIC: EL CASTILLO

 

El Castillo is the second tallest structure in Belize (after the temple at Caracol), at 40m (130 feet) tall.

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It is quite the climb for those of us adverse to heights.

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The sides are decorated with depictions of different Mayan gods.

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The view from the top is spectacular. Again, mounds remain to either side. Our guide noted, there are more ruins just waiting to be found.

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The site itself is beautiful.

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Guatemala is off in the distance.

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The back.

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One last photo as we climbed down.

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A wonderful tour.

CAHAL PECH

 

Our first stop on the Mayan Ruin tour was Cahal Pech, embedded in a local city:

Cahal Pech is a Maya site located near the Town of San Ignacio in the Cayo District of Belize. The site was a hilltop palacio home for an elite Maya family, and though most major construction dates to the Classic period, evidence of continuous habitation has been dated to as far back as far as 1200 BCE during the Early Middle Formative period (Early Middle Preclassic), making Cahal Pech one of the oldest recognizably Maya sites in Western Belize.[1][2]. The site rests high near the banks of the Macal River and is strategically located to overlook the confluence of the Macal River and the Mopan River. The site is a collection of 34 structures, with the tallest temple being about 25 meters in height, situated around a central acropolis. The site was abandoned in the 9th century CE for unknown reasons.

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The remains of doors leading to the privileged courtyards off of Plaza B (hypothesized to be an open market). The Maya believed in odd numbers, in this case there were 9 doors from side to side.

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Back to the point on their history, we did not see many wall drawings. Perhaps due to their use of red dyes from trees .. which wears off.

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Everything in the Maya ruin centers on status. One spot for the commoner, another spot for the 2nd tier, inside for only the top level. Clearly a society built on status and hierarchy. This site was not unearthed until 1988, and even now, huge parts of the site remain underground awaiting the next stage of study. Note the way the trees and dirt remain in place over top of the temple.

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Unlike Costa Rica, wildlife was not that common. We saw a few hummingbirds and this very poisonous snake, the Central American Coral snake.

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In each ruin there was a ball court. The game’s actual rules are not known, so more hypothesis. What they do know is that they used a rubber ball from a rubber tree, which was solid and weighed between 6 and 8 lbs. If given a pass, you would not want to miss. Oh yes, and there seems to be consensus that there was a lot of ritual around the game and at times, it could lead to your being sacrificed. I can see the coach, “No pressure lads. Just get out there and do your best. Oh yes, and remember, this is the finals. So, if you lose, you are going to get sacrificed to the sun god. Really a win-win. We win, you are a hero. We lose you go to the sun god and help next years crop. So, chins high, get out there and give it your best!’.

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Next, Xunantunich.

MAYAN RUINS

 

I was most looking forward to the Mayan ruins in Belize. I love going to historical sites and learning about ancient cultures (Egypt remains my favourite trip of all time). Our trip took us to two ruins, Chahal Pech and Xunantunich.

What is very different about the Mayan ruins and culture is how little is known. Unlike other cultures which have documents (in the form of hieroglyphics or the like), the Mayan culture is quite the mystery. It seemed like much of their lifestyle, rituals and culture history is based on hypothesis. One big question that remains unanswered is what happened to the Maya civilization? Why did their culture die out?

Via.

Some 88 different theories or variations of theories attempting to explain the Classic Maya Collapse have been identified.[4] From climate change to deforestation to lack of action by Mayan kings, there is no universally accepted collapse theory, although drought is gaining momentum as the leading explanation

I also found it interesting that much of their history remains buried. It would seem that the lack of resources and funding has left many of the sites covered. Even in the large Xunantunich site, there were huge mounds to each side which entombed ancient ruins. The history of the Maya (that they do know) is that each new leader built on top of the old one, so layers upon layers remain undiscovered.

Awaiting a foreign University’s funding …..

BELIZE

 

March break time and this year we decided on Belize. Why? I am not sure. It could be because of an international property salesperson who we talked to about Belize or because we decided that the Galapagos was a bit to far this time around (that is DEFINITELY on the bucket list).

We went into the country knowing only a few facts:

  • It is an ex-British colony, not unlike Canada.
  • They speak English.
  • They have great diving.
  • Everything we read said it is safe.

After 11 days there, we learned a lot about the country. Belize is very poor. It does not come off as ‘Egypt’ level poor, but with a GDP of $2.6B and per capita income of less than $8K, you can see it in the lack of infrastructure. One story we heard as we traveled to the resort was about the road we were on to Hopkins. It was partially paved due to a politician’s broken promises (some things are the same regardless of country). The politician promised that if he was elected, he would get the road paved. He got it partially paved and 15 years later I am not sure which is rougher, the unpaved dirt part or the crumbling, washed away paved part. You can also see it in the homes you pass and the litter. It is sad to say but litter is everywhere and no one is picking it up.

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I also wondered about jobs. Tourism makes up a huge part of the economy, as does agriculture. What I noticed as we passed through the towns were scores and scores of able bodied people sitting on their front step or a common area, hanging out during business hours. When I asked about the citrus harvest (We passed many Orange orchards), it turns out that Belizeans don’t participate. They import workers from Guatemala and other countries to do the harvest as the ‘jobs don’t pay enough’. The unemployment rate isn’t astronomically high at 13.1%, so perhaps this is just an anomaly in outlying regions?

All of those ‘North American’ observations aside, one thing is very clear – the people we met were very happy. It seemed like everyone was smiling. People waving as you drive by. As one guide said ‘How can we not be happy every day? We live in paradise’

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In that he is right. It is paradise. Perhaps living on the beach isn’t a bad idea ….

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QUEBEC CITY

 

Last week I had the opportunity to travel to Quebec City for the first time (I know – how bad is it that it has taken this long?). My boys have both taken trips to the city and raved about how great it is. Like Montreal, it is one of the few cities in North America that has that ‘old world European’ feel to it. So, I was excited. While it was a busy day, I figured that at a minimum I would get to see some of the architecture as the primary meeting was set in the core of the city.

Instead, I got this. The first shot was from the airport as I disembarked. That is a very big front loader struggling to keep up with the forecasted 30cm of snow on the way.

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This is picturesque Quebec City in a snowstorm. About 30 meters of visibility. All schools closed. Sliding cars.

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And this is the first Dash 8 that I was EVER happy to be on. All flights to Toronto were cancelled (Why? I have no idea. It was not snowing in Toronto). But they were flying to Montreal (full) and Ottawa, so I jumped on an Ottawa flight. I have flown on a lot of Dash 8’s over the years (If you ever fly from Halifax to any of the other Atlantic provinces, it is usually on a Dash 8), they are noisy, bumpy and I am not quite sure if they are actually heated. But one thing that is great about a Dash 8 … they are the regional/bush work horse. So as we approached, I knew one thing …

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No matter what Mother Nature threw at us, this thing was taking off. And it did. Perhaps I will see some of Quebec City’s beauty next time.

INSIDE THE MNAC

 

Inside the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya are a range of pieces dating back to the 1300’s. As I travelled through the galleries it became clear that early Spanish art was heavily influenced by the Christian religion in the same way that Italian museums are gallery after gallery of saints, church officials and Christian scenes. Of the religious works, two stood out for me. The first being this piece titled ‘Crist cami del Golgota’.

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It wasn’t the overall picture that caught my eye but this specific image. I found it haunting.

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The next is one that I cannot find on the web but simply found very odd. Titled ‘Nen Jesus triomfant’, a sculpture of a baby Jesus standing on a skull by Lluis Bonifas I Masson. I could find very little on the artist and nothing on the piece. Art is about the viewer interpreting the piece, but I would love to ask what he was thinking. I found it quite disturbing, I could see a dead serpent but a human skull?

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One other piece that struck me odd was ‘Nina Cosint’. Is it just me or is poor Nina to be forever remembered as the girl with the gigantic man hands?

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In the last gallery we came across more contemporary but, as one of the few English plaques stated, ‘not that unique’ pieces geared towards pleasing the general audience of the time. Personally, I found many rich in color and spectacular. Below are a few photos that I will use as desktop backgrounds.

The first from 1805, ‘Gerro amb flors’. A camera fails to capture how rich this painting is.

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A gallery was filled with these landscapes, each with striking deep colors and a style that was clearly ‘de rigueur’ during the late 1800’s in Spain. Perhaps I am just a sucker for a striking sky.

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The gallery also contained the famous 15m long canvas depicting The battle of Tetuan from the Spanish-Moroccan war. The scale of the piece was impressive.

The last notable was a small coin section tucked away at the top of the gallery. Moving from 200BC to contemporary times, it documents the evolution of coins and forgery. These were from the BC era.

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A nice way to spend a few hours.

IN THE DISTANCE

 

I had zero time to tour Barcelona as it was a very busy week, other than an hour in the art museum at the top of the hill on the last day as the event closed. It was raining (again) and overcast. In the distance you could see La Sagrada Familia. I wonder how much it has changed?

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From the conference grounds, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya keeps watch .. a beautiful building. What I didn’t realize (until now) is that it is home to several other museums.

The Palau Nacional, the emblematic building of the 1929 International Exhibition, is the home of the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. It is situated on the mountain of Montjuïc, a privileged site from where you can enjoy a magnificent and unique view of the city of Barcelona.

The Palau Nacional is situated in a unique setting: Montjuïc, the mountain of museums, leisure and sport, well on the way to becoming an area of culture and life. The institutions you will find spread around the Park, of renowned international prestige, make Montjuïc the museum centre par excellence in Barcelona, with a diverse, complete offer. As well as the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, you can visit the Fundació Joan Miró, the Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya, the Museu Etnològic and CaixaForum, among others.

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The ballroom is spectacular.

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And the domes (which you can see from outside) are breathtaking. We just don’t have these types of buildings in Canada.

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FRANKFURT

 

I do not claim to be a big world traveller. I travel more than some, less than others. I have been all through Canada and the US, through many airports in Europe – London, Paris, Barcelona, Munich .. etc. But I do know a good lounge and the Germans have it nailed.

Arriving off the red-eye in Frankfurt I had my customary ‘Camel chuckle’ and headed into the Lufthansa lounge. I love their lounges. While they are crowded, they are decked out with all of the right trappings. The food is fantastic, muesli, fruit smoothies, lots of fruit and a bagel-like bar where they make these wonderful morning concoctions fresh. To top it off, the coffee. Sitting enjoying a espresso with a choice of 10 English language newspapers just seems like a good way to pass the time while I wait for a connection.

The Germans have it right.

GELATERIA

 

I was walking from an event in Vancouver a few weeks ago and happened upon Bella Gelateria. The owner was there and took the time to regal us with tales of his life and education in Italy where he learned the art. His passion for gelato was evident, and it came through in his craft. He explained each flavour, speaking of the hours invested and exotic ingredients gathered from around the world.

It was one of the best gelatos I have ever had … as good as Grom in Florence. As a reminder, if you want to know the easiest way to identify great gelato – it is by the color. The more color, the worse it is. The below is very bad gelato set to suck the tourist in (taken in Rome).

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A FEW MORE FROM THE INTERWEB

 

  • The question of whether or not you can catch up on sleep is often debated. Turns our that a weekend spent sleeping late after a week with little sleep does work, according to the Sleep journal:

A study in the Aug. 1 issue of the journal Sleep suggests that a dose of extra sleep on the weekend may be good medicine for adults who repeatedly stay up too late or wake up too early during the workweek. However, even a night of 10 hours in bed may not be enough to cure the negative effects of chronic sleep restriction.

  • There are many articles about whether or not video games are beneficial. It is amazing to watch them play now, so fast, much faster than me. According to a University study, there are benefits; fast paced video games improve decision making:

Participants in a University of Rochester study, "Improved probabilistic inference as a general learning mechanism with action video games", by UR professor of brain and cognitive science Daphne Bavelier played 50 hours of video games over multiple weeks. Players who played action games like Call of Duty 2 (pictured here) made quicker decisions than those who played slow-paced strategy games like The Sims without sacrificing accuracy.

  • Esquire had an article for the holidays on how to be more interesting (in social situations) …. Most are common sense, but 8 made me think:

8. With people you don’t know, limit stories to the last five minutes of your life — the turnout, the Scotch selection, the homeless man you mistakenly took for a valet.

The Who’s Been Sleeping In My Bed Award to three British Holiday Inns for launching another new amenity – human bed-warmers. During a January cold snap, guests who paid an extra fee could have a staff member in a one-piece sleeper suit crawl between their sheets to preheat the bed to 20 C. The service is “a bit like having a giant hot water bottle in your bed,” chain spokeswoman Jane Bednall said. Guest Evan Jones disagreed. “It’s slightly creepy,” he said. “I might pay to not have it.”

  • Enjoyed the article How Canada’s Dollar Got Ahead and Left America Behind in Esquire, discussing Canadian financial prudence and the fact that there wasn’t a single Canadian bank bailed out during the recent crisis. The article could have been called ‘Revenge of the Conservative’.

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JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF

 

My blog entries on Banff are a bit scattered. One of the best hikes that we took while in Banff National Park was Johnston Canyon. It was an overcast day, but we were up for it. Judging by the parking lot, it is a popular hike.

You have a few choices on this hike, a 1.1 km hike to the lower falls, a 2.6 km hike to the upper falls or a rather rigorous 5.6 km hike to the Ink Pots. We chose to go all the way.

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It is a beautiful climb.

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The inkpots at the end of the climb are not really that magnificent, but interesting. Seven mineral springs that bubble and swirl non-stop in big pools.

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But the view of the valley at the top is spectacular.

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Of course, the water is cold and the purest you can get.

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After leaving the canyon we happened upon a herd of sheep trotting down the road, unperturbed by the cars all around them.

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A great day out.

BELIZE

 

Well, after way too much research and a destination goal of South or Central America with beach and adventure, we are booked. Twelve days in Belize in the spring.

I had teed up the Galapagos also, but want to wait one more year. It is a bit more arduous and if we are going to go to the Galapagos .. I want to hike the volcano.

Cannot wait. Now to coax Santa into those two lenses (smile).

SULPHUR MOUNTAIN II – BANFF

 

At the top of the mountain you get a moments enjoyment. You look around and enjoy the spectacular views as it dawns upon you that you are not at the top yet.

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At the gondola exit is a tea house and various tourist booths. While we were there we were able to watch how they get supplies to the top of mountain.

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I am always amazed at where a tree can grow.

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Spectacular.

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The true top.

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SULPHUR MOUNTAIN: BANFF

 

As part of our Banff trip we hiked Sulphur Mountain. It is one of the Top 10 things to do in Banff. Most people take the gondola up, enjoy the view and take the gondola down. It is not for the faint of heart …. 6.1KM to the peak and a 2,292 ft (698m) vertical climb.

A few hours climbing with amazing views along the way. The sign at the bottom, near the hot springs lets you know what you are signing up for.

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The path zig zags the way up to the summit. Of course, there are suggestions to stay on the trail. Especially in certain areas.

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Above .. and below .. are people enjoying the gondola ride up.

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It is a long way down ….

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Roughly half way up, off the trail is a small waterfall with the clearest, coldest and purest of water.

 

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This picture from the waterfall gives you an idea of how steep the climb is (we were climbing on the left).

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Neat to see snow in July, tucked into a corner, feeding the waterfall.

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And of course, there were others on the trail.

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These little critters are very smart. They know that tourists are just dying to give them a nut or two.

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And after a long climb, we crested the top …. and the view is worth the hike.

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LITTLE AUSTRALIA or BANFF

 

The other way to describe Banff is Little Australia. I have often heard that Canada and Australia have a lot in common, similar social system, parliament, a Prime Minister, sarcastic sense of humour and of course a relationship with Britain and the monarchy. It seems like Australians who go travelling in Canada for a multi month or year stint land in Banff. I was under the impressions that every other waiter, clerk or service individual was an Aussie.

In speaking with one young lady we asked her why there are so many Aussies in Banff, her response was simple – Aussies love the outdoors.

No complaints, everyone that we met was great. One of my next books is In a Sunburned Country as I know almost nothing about Australia and it is definitely on my ‘spend a month there’ list.

BANFF – Part I

 

I am way behind on posting about our summer adventure to my home province, Alberta. It is interesting how living in a country sort of ‘numbs’ you to the wonder of that country or gives you that attitude of ‘I will get there eventually’. I remember my English friends saying ‘I think you have seen more of the UK than I have’.

Which is why we are trying to get out and see Canada. Montreal last year, Banff and Calgary this year.

You land in Calgary and it is a short drive into the Rockies and Banff. It has been a very long time since I have been there (20+ years) and I have to admit, driving into Banff National Park is awe inspiring. It is truly one of the most beautiful places in the world.

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The rivers and lakes are the clearest, purest, most vibrant colors I have ever seen, straight from glaciers millions of years old.

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The town of Banff itself is nestled among the mountains with wildlife everywhere. A walk down the path is a lot different than one in the city. A few elk and deer were lazing around in the forest, simply watching the people go by ….

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Look carefully and you will see the most interesting of trees, with unique natural growth.

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At the center of town is the Banff park headquarters, a beautiful building built in the 1930’s. I was recently speaking with a fellow who spent many happy years working there. He mentioned that if you go into the archives, you will find journey books from years ago and notes from the park wardens, all carefully maintained. Only recently did they realize that there is a 4th floor in the building .. it had been boarded up. A few other notable highlights are mentioned here.

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A breathtakingly beautiful town.

A LITTLE CHURCH IN ORO

 

I took a few days off over the weekend, call it an ‘uber-long’ weekend, as our boys had their fall break. They boycotted any trip – stating they wanted to hang out and rejuvenate. Which is fine by me as I see more than my fair share of planes.

So we spent a weekend doing different stuff; we got 12 of our boys mates together and went paintballing in 14 degree, fall sunshine (fantastic), rode bikes, went for walks, got the last of the ‘pre-winter’ stuff done, watched the final episodes of Dexter – Season 3 (I was not disappointed. A friend had said it ends with twists, turns and a bang – had to watch the last 3 in a row – it is that good) and generally relaxed.

The last day was a trip up north to get the skis tuned (refitted where necessary) and to buy a bike.

As we drove down a side road we came across this little hidden gem, the Oro Methodist Church, which was the northern most stop on the underground railway as African-Americans escaped slavery in the south.

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The plaques erected around the site tell the story:

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I never knew the story of Captain Runchey’s “Company of Coloured Men” until now:

Captain Runchey’s Company of Coloured Men was a militia company of free negroes and indentured negro servants, raised in Upper Canada, which fought for the British during the early part of the Anglo-American War of 1812. In 1813, the company was transformed into the Provincial Corps of Artificers and attached to the Royal Sappers and Miners. It served on the Niagara front during the war, and was disbanded a few months after the war ended.

A different inscription (which I didn’t photograph) said the settlement was key to defending against a US invasion via Georgian Bay. Considering the settlement is many hours (by horseback) from the bay, I am not sure how that worked. Although it might have been a simple defence by ‘being around and running to tell someone’.

Interesting piece of Canadian history.

BELATED OLYMPICS: Part IV (and last)

 

A few random shots that capture the spirit of Vancouver. Such a vibrant city.

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The trees were a little messed up, it was that warm. They should not have been flowering.

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When the fog moves in.

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The Olympic torches against a dark sky.

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An actual steam clock, built as a tourist attraction in Gastown.

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Across from where we stayed was a Asian market. It was just unbelievable, they made fresh everything for take-away (dim sum, sushi, you name it ..) and we frequented their store. What caught my eye was their fresh seafood area. Those are some HUGE crabs.

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I did enjoy the warning.

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Vancouver was a great host, and remains one of the coolest cities around. And so ends … our Olympic adventure.

BELATED OLYMPICS: Part III

 

What would a Canadian Olympic visit be without a hockey game? We caught the American women’s game, where they trounced their European competitors.

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And of course, we all remember how hockey went for the Canadians in the Olympics, men’s and women’s gold.

The highlight was ski jumping. Wow. Sitting right below these guys, watching them jump 100m into the air is breathtaking and they land on the steepest of slopes. We really enjoyed watching them twist and turn. Something I will never do …

These pictures give you a sense of the hill and the slopes.

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And these photos give you a sense of just how high and how tenuous the landing can be. We saw a few major wipe outs.

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And as with every event, there was an army of people ready to help out after every big jump.

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Very cool event.

BELATED OLYMPICS: Part II

 

As I mentioned, Vancouver was buzzing with activity. We were fortunate to stay downtown, in the sea of activity. Vancouver really is one of the more beautiful cities in the world (and it was sunny the entire time).

A few shots of the skyline from our room at different times. Beautiful city.

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And a shot of a big chrome head. We didn’t have time to walk over and see who it is. But it sure looks like Lenin ….

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THE BELATED OLYMPICS POST

 

New blog, old blog draft clean-ups. It has been a busy year and there are a few blog posts that I never actually posted. For example, a post on the Olympics. So, better late than never. Here it is.

A few weeks ago (or more than a few weeks ago) I had the opportunity to spend time with clients at the Olympics. Being Canadian, it was definitely a proud and unique experience. It was odd to see so much patriotism, Canadian t-shirts, jackets and jerseys everywhere. A wonderful event.

Our first event was speed skating and it seemed like it was a sea of orange, the Dutch were everywhere! I don’t know what they did, load up a big boat or a ton of planes and come over en-mass, but they love their speed skating. I have never been to one of these events, but it was great to see a Kristina Groves get 3rd (1500m).

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It was held in the Richmond Olympic Oval, which has a spectacular with a roof:

BC Pine-Beetle Wood Roof — The Oval’s massive ceiling is made of salvaged British Columbia wood that was damaged by a pine-beetle infestation. At a size of about 100 metres by 200 metres (2 hectares), the roof is believed to be the largest surface ever covered in the once-discarded wood. Showcasing use of this wood may encourage its application elsewhere and help mitigate the economic hardship the pine beetle epidemic has brought upon regional communities in British Columbia.

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As we left, the sea of orange followed and I started to notice just how tall the Dutch are. Someone with us mentioned that it is the Dutch, to which Narda  inquired ‘What happened to you?’

Guess I am really from Estonia.

FLORENCE

 

I never did blog about our trip to Florence or Venice. Both remarkable cities. In Florence, we had one of our best dinners of the trip. Somehow, I am not sure how, we were given advice on a restaurant that was well out of the way and a local favourite – I Tarocchi. A small restaurant, with wooden bench seats, very minimal decor and spectacular – home cooked food. They make this pasta dish with pear that is to die for, and their tiramisu was as good as I have ever had. All for 40 Euros, a pleasant change after a few mediocre – tourist restaurants that charged you an arm and a leg.

A few photos of Florence. A craftman’s shop, which looked a lot like how it would have been a hundred years ago.

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The covered bridges of Florence host homes and shops. And are very crowded …

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The Boboli Gardens are spectacular. Seems the Italians also have a ‘gift’ or two liberated from Egypt.

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A fresco in one of the garden buildings.

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I love how Europeans ride their bikes everywhere.

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And no trip in Europe is complete without a beautiful church, and in this case a door – made of gold – depicting scenes from the Bible. In this case, David and Goliath.

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I would like to go back to Florence one day. It really isn’t a ‘kid’ trip. Florence is a city made for couples. One day.

BEISERKER

 

While on our way to Drumheller, Alberta to see the dinosaur remains and the badlands I had to stop at the town of Beiseker. Small towns like this are scattered all over the prairies, maybe a gas station, some form of general store and a few agricultural or oil supported businesses. To me, it just looked deserted.

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Even though it is a small village with limited facilities, it is Canadian and therefore, there is a hockey rink. Of course.

THE HORSE WON

 

In July I took the family to Alberta, my home province. They have never been there before. I will blog about the Rockies soon enough. We also went to the Stampede which I remember from my youth. I marched in the Stampede parade as a kid – with the Brooks Community Band – in grade 8 and 9 … I was the youngest member ever. Check out the fancy uniform. Heavy, 3 sizes too big and thick wool (very hot and itchy).

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I didn’t remember the Stampede very well from my youth. It was an interesting affair this time around and I did get a few interesting pictures. My favourite below, I was rooting for the horse and the horse won.

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A picture of the ‘before’ the gate opens. Why they do this, I have no idea. The facial expression does not indicate enjoyment.

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The horse number 409 is riding is worth $100,000.

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To be honest, the highlight for us was the Superdogs. What an amazing show. The sheep dogs are beyond smart and by far the fastest.

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Another culture experienced.