THINGS I WISH I WOULD HAVE KNOWN BEFORE MOVING TO TOKYO

When we moved to Tokyo I found it very hard to figure out. As expatriate assignments go, Japan is like moving to Mars and dramatically more complex than when we moved to Europe.

As a public service announcement, I share a few key learnings in the hope that it helps others in the future.

  • Japanese addresses:  Have your home address in your contacts in Japanese. It makes it much easier with the taxi drivers. If you are going somewhere, print it out from the web and hand it over in Japanese. Easy.
  • Metro:  The Android/iPhone application for getting around the subways is invaluable. Put in your starting location and your ending stop and it maps the way. I use it all the time.
  • Costco:  It took us months to figure out where the Costco was. There are (now) many in Japan. Want to avoid that $50 melon? Costco is the place. Amazing prices, English signs and great service.
  • Amazon.jp:  I wish I would have known this right from the beginning. Amazon.jp sells almost everything imaginable and has been a savior for the family. Boxes of lemon water, kitchen items, condiments, a vacuum cleaner, humidifiers (it gets very dry), vacuum bags – you name it, that is where I start when we need something (other than Costco).  As an Amazon prime member shipping is free on many items so you don’t have to worry about buying a single bottle of $2 cinnamon. The trick is finding things, you can select “English” on the website but it may not find what you want so I often use the “People who bought this also looked at these items” features or browse by category. Last, there is nothing more amazing than ordering two boxes of vitamin water at 9AM and having it arrive at 7PM that same night  .. on a Saturday.
  • Google Translate:  Invaluable for a few words. Avoid sentences to ensure you do not accidentally offend (smile). At home, use the Chrome browser and install the extension as sometimes it gets “stuck” translating a page into Japanese and it is handy to be able to hit the translate button and have it start over. Plus, very handy on your iPhone. It is how I bought a car.
  • Money: The best way to move money from country to country (unless you are moving a huge amount), is with a check. You can read more here.
  • Electric bikes:  If you have young children, buy a bike in Japan. They have electric bikes which are a mix of pedaling and battery power. Tokyo is a VERY hilly place, and that battery “boost” will be very helpful if you have a child or a host of groceries on the back of the bike. Just don’t be like most of the expats and almost all of the Japanese, wear a helmet.
  • Guam and Saipan:  We needed a break from the city in the summer and tried to head down to Okinawa or into the central parts of Asia (Philippines, etc.) when we first moved here. As we drove to the airport we cancelled our trip to Okinawa as a typhoon was hitting. The summer is typhoon season in Asia, making your choice of destinations one that requires a lot of research. I wish I would have known about Guam – close to Tokyo, beautiful beaches, English speaking and simple. We have been there 3 times in the last 2 years – it is the easy, get out of the city break for a beach.
  • Lunch:  Tokyo has, absolutely, the best restaurants in the world. More Michelin stars than anywhere else. But dinner is expensive – with the restaurants pushing set menus that range from $75 to $250 per person. The secret is that lunch in Japan is the best deal in the world. Those $200 dinners for $30 (with less courses). Do lunch.

Tokyo is the safest and cleanest city in the world. It has beautiful parks and perplexing rules. The Japanese people are incredibly friendly and will openly try to help you out as a foreigner.

But it can be daunting, as I described in this post. I hope this helps others.

THE FOUR SEASONS AND JAPAN

I am a Starwoods guy. Whenever I can, our family stays in their hotels because that is where I stay on business. A friend coached me when I first came out of university – pick a hotel chain and stick with it – that is how he gets a free week in Maui every year.

That qualifying statement complete, the Four Seasons is impressive. We stayed at the Four Seasons in Cairo years ago and it is one of the best hotel we have ever stayed at. The view helped.

2008 03 23 172 Egypt

2008 03 23 174 Egypt

Recently we were speaking with someone who had managed the restaurant at the Four Seasons in Tokyo. We were discussing the Japanese culture, creativity and education. He provided the following insight (paraphrased from memory):

It was a real challenge at the restaurant because our staff struggled with the westerners. At a Four Seasons it is very common for the guest to not order off the menu. They expect to order what they want and have us prepare it.

This is very different than the Japanese clients. I cannot remember any Japanese client every asking to order outside the menu. It just isn’t how they think and our servers really struggled with dealing with the custom ordering.

It just isn’t how the Japanese were taught to think and as the world continues to change, I wonder as to what will be required out of the Japanese education system, is it being altered to deal with change? (I believe the answer is no). We all need a good dose of Finnish education.

A VIEW ON JAPANESE BUSINESS CONSERVATISM

I was having lunch with a new acquaintance who has been in Japan for 4 years. We were comparing notes on what it is like to live in Japan and do business (It is his first international assignment).

When we discussed the future of the country and the significant challenges ahead (e.g. declining population, competitive threats, etc.) we came to the ultra-conservative, risk adverse culture. He shared his view on Japanese business conservatism (I paraphrase):

Japan is like the children of a rich, entrepreneurial father (Male terms are used as Japan has yet to have true feminist political or cultural progress). That father (post World War II Japan) had to pull himself out of the rubble, band together with other fathers and drive success despite significant challenges. That father had to work hard, innovate and drive out a significant competitive advantage against fierce global competition.

That father built an empire and got rich. Very rich. (Think of how afraid business was of Japan in the 80s).

And that father passed that wealth on to his children. They enjoyed a very nice lifestyle, good schools, travelled the world and came to enjoy the best of the best (Japanese are some of the world’s biggest luxury goods spenders)

Now the father has passed the torch and that 2nd generation has taken over the business. There are a few who make the business more successful, there are some who ruin it but the vast majority simply maintain it. They are so worried about losing what they have – the lifestyle they have become use to, the success that is their father’s history, the legacy of passing that wealthy and lifestyle down to their children – that they do not take risks, they do not innovate. They become the ultra-conservatives, maintaining the business out of fear of losing it all.

The problem is that around every corner is that first generation father who is starting with nothing. Who has the same drive as the post WWII Japanese father, is willing to take risks, innovate and build a competitive advantage. Fighting to build something for his family (China, Korea). The conservative 2nd generation views the competitor as uncouth and rough in their approach. They are well educated, the competitor is not. They have a position of financial strength, the competitor is building that. They are willing to work hard to continue their parent’s legacy of Japanese quality and engineering excellence, in many cases over engineering as they continue to improve on things that do not need to be improved. Their competitor is willing to sacrifice quality for volume (China) or has successfully figured out how to deliver quality at a good price (Korea).

They band with the other 2nd generation peers at the country club to discuss the up-and-comers. They discuss not wanting to compromise to compete (e.g. reduce engineer quality or service levels to be price competitive). That is the path of their fathers, the path they must follow, the honorable path. The safe path.

But that next generation is banging at the door of the country club. They want to introduce their children to that which they never had.

The banging on the country club door gets louder every day …

Sadly, his story reminded me of the day that I learned about the Horray Henry. The question is, will Japan’s business leaders realize the need for innovation, change and risk before it is too late?

MAKING SENSE OF THE JAPAN ECONOMIC NEWS

Whether you live in Japan or somewhere else, many people are talking about Japan’s economy. I get a lot of articles forwarded on the topic and you cannot open a local paper without something on the topic of Abeconimics.

Many foreigners are excited about the decline of the Yen, a hot stock market and media news about the revitalization of the economy. But unfortunately, revitalizing an economy that has been flat or deflating for 20 years is turning out to be not as simple as driving inflation and driving down the Yen to increase exports.

As I “re-learned” in the spring while supporting my son on a project, economies are fickle things that governments can manipulate over the short term, but over the long run it is the consumer and business owner that decides the fate of the country.

In our North American, consumer driven economies this isn’t as big an issue. People buy bigger houses when rates come down and load up on debt. The same isn’t true in Japan. In the article Japanese husbands get allowances—and they’re at a 31-year low, in a bad sign for Abenomics, the author explains a very different reality in the Japanese culture:

In at least half of Japanese married households, the wife controls the budget and allocates a proportion of her husband’s salary for spending money known as “okozukai”—which covers mobile phone bills, drinks, cigarettes, and entertainment. The average allowance has slipped to $386 per month, according toa new survey by Shinsei Bank (pdf), down 3% from last year and to the lowest level since 1982.

Last year the BBC interviewed one 47-year-old Japanese man who had been receiving an unchanged allowance from his wife for 15 years. He tried to negotiate a raise, but “she [drew] a pie chart of our household budget to explain why I cannot get more pocket money,” he said, defeated.

The okozukai system is part of a broader Japanese financial culture where families often save huge amounts, particularly when times are bad. The result has been an economic disaster, which is why a key part of the government’s “Abenomics” suite of economic reforms is encouraging savers to spend.

Now overlay that notion with the demographics: the Japanese population is aging rapidly and every year the population declines significantly as young people are not getting married and having children. This means that the strain on the government social system is going to increase as time goes by and in one estimate I read the population is on a trajectory which may see it hit 100M people by 2040 (down from the current 127M).

Japan needs young people to pay for the upcoming social system burden, replenish the workforce and create that next wave of naive, exuberant, consumerism to drive demand. But many are rebelling at the notion as the young males do not want to enter the okuzukai system like their dads (neither would I) or the salaryman culture that is pervasive in Japan: (Via A Geek in Japan):

Salarymen wake up at around eight o’clock in the morning, have breakfast, put on their suits, take up their briefcases, and get on the train for a commute of approximately an hour. They work, have lunch with their coworkers, and usually work overtime, arriving home very late at night. Often, before going home, they will go out for a drink with their workmates and pass the time at an izakaya.

From a simple logistics point of view, how do you get the population to spend more and jump start the economy when they spend 5 or 6 days a week in the office till late at night when the promise of lifetime employment is no longer on the table? (read Japan’s Lost Generation).

Now add the cultural conundrum of immigration which seems to be the only way that Japan can maintain their population, a strong workforce and base of consumers. Japan is one of the last homogenous societies in the world. 99% of Japan is Japanese, bolstered by the last earthquake which lead to a max exodus of foreigners (Flyjin). That homogeneity is one of the fundamental underpinnings of Japanese society; it means shared values, group minded thinking, true social consciousness, safety as a group, and the most orderly society in the world. But when the population is aging and declining rapidly what other choice is there? Japan is heading to this cliff and rightly recognize that this one topic will change the very fabric of their 3,000 year old society – which is why they so actively resist it.

On the business side, the stock market is up and exports have swung upwards due to the weakened Yen. But for Abenomics to work, Japanese companies need to start hiring more people (which creates more consumers) and start building factories (which drives jobs). One of the best articles to articulate this is Will Abenomics Work?

We think the current economic upsurge is mainly due to: i) exporters
enjoying a temporary respite until either China and Korea react with
devaluations of their own or there is a repeat of the Eurozone
meltdown, and ii) the spending habits of exporters wealthier
shareholders and suppliers. But since exporters only account for 16%
of the economy, and just 15% of Japan’s households hold any shares at
all, these very visible players should not be mistaken as representing
the Japanese economy as a whole. Rather, we think that while the top
1% might indeed be feeling wealthier, and 1m people can certainly buy
a noticeable amount of high-end goods, but there’s another 126m who
are not seeing anything other than rising prices and instead are
wondering just when things will get better.

Add into that an inflated labour market where companies will struggle to add to their workforce when they are not allowed to remove low performers or surplus workers:

Near the top of the reforms list, just under deregulation and lowering corporate tax, is the need by employers for more “labor flexibility” — code for the ability to fire people they no longer need. Economists reckon that 10% of employees (about 4.5m people) in Japanese companies are redundant, and if they could companies would let that many go in order to increase productivity.

When you add all these up it makes a simple point: this isn’t as simple as driving inflation, this is about culture and the question of deep change.

The challenge with that is that if you start changing the cultural foundations of the society, the downstream impact is that you reshape the very fabric of what it is to be Japan.

In a 3,000 year old society, that is not to be taken lightly and one needs to beware the rabbits as the consequences are significant.

Japan is a fascinating place with many big questions looming. It is a privilege to be here at this point in time, listening, learning and observing.

 

As an aside, a few of my favourites on Japan:

  • One Obstacle Won’t Budge in Japan’s Fight With Deflation   Fascinating read on the economy and Japanese vending machines (there is a vending machine for every 33 people)
  • A Geek in Japan    A great read on Japan culture, and what it means to be a gaijin working in a Japanese company.
  • The Japan Times.    I find the “local” papers are a great insight into what it means to be part of the culture. I still read the Guardian out of the UK.

REORGANIZATION

Shared by a friend, and I had to laugh (check the date):

“We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.”

Gaius Petronius Arbiter, 210 BC

Unfortunately, it was not from 210. The quote is from Charlton Ogburn Jr (1911-1998), in Harper’s Magazine, “Merrill’s Marauders: The truth about an incredible adventure”

Still, an interesting quote. And of course, a great reinforcement … busy work is just busy work .. it doesn’t mean that anything is being accomplished.

JUST BUSINESS (archive)

I do not know where I heard this, but someone said “Evil starts with people saying ‘It’s just business'”.

What a thought provoking statement. Google takes this seriously, their corporate mantra is ‘don’t be evil’. Read about it here.

If you ever doubted the truth of this statement, watch the DVD The Corporation or read about how IBM sped the Jewish Holocaust while profiting from sales to Germany and the Allies.

A thought to ponder as we go about our daily ‘business’ from two perspectives:

1. As we go about, what we do to people through the process of ‘business’ has an impact. We impact them economically, socially and emotionally. Are we proud of what we do and how we act? Do we make people’s lives better.

2. Always remember, you are a number to a company. Act like a Personal Services Corporation and the lines between ‘They need me and owe me’ and ‘I am valuable only as long as our relationship provides mutual value’ will never blur.