On a dusty road, on a small mountain in Cambodia, a family tends their market. The children looking on.
When we drove back a few hours later they were gone. Their village was a few hundred meters into the jungle. Perhaps off to enjoy the afternoon like these children.
A simpler life.
While in Siem Reap we decided to head to the mountain region of Phnom Kulen – a drive that we thought would take 90 minutes turned into 3 hours each way.
Pot holed roads, a lack of infrastructure coupled with a heavy rain the night before meant 20km/hr top speed. A long drive. As we clawed our way up the mountain we came across this small stand filled with bananas. I have never seen a red banana before? (Config: Canon 5D Mark III with 28-70mm f/2.8)
A small bicycle shop.
As you wind your way up the mountain (asking yourself, will it ever end?), you occasionally peak out on the countryside.
The reason why you travel to the top of this mountain is for the waterfall and these runes. Thousands, carved into the river bank as a tribute to their gods and royalty.
The site is known for its carvings representing fertility and its waters which hold special significance to Hindus. Just 5 cm under the water’s surface over 1000 small carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed. The waters are regarded as holy, given that Jayavarman II chose to bathe in the river, and had the river diverted so that the stone bed could be carved. Carvings include a stone representation of the Hindu god Vishnu lying on his serpent Ananta, with his wife Lakshmi at his feet.[6] A lotus flower protrudes from his navel bearing the god Brahma.
Harder to see due to the higher water level.
Just past the runes is a temple with a large reclining Buddha. As you would expect there is a market selling worshipers (and tourists) flowers and other items. It also appears to be the central market for the village.
There was nothing to explain why the Buddha at Preah Ang Thom is reclining. Carved out of rock and painted gold, it is massive.
At the temples I understand the incense, but I need to research the symbolism of the lotus flower petals in the water.
Last shot from the mountain .. the waterfall.
Which is a rather treacherous climb to get to.
Another interesting stop.
The fellow seems quite content.
Config: Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 28-70mm
One last temple in Cambodia to finish out the “big 3” of Siem Reap – Bayon, or the temple with 4 faces.
The Bayon’s most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and massive stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak.[2] The temple is known also for two impressive sets ofbas-reliefs, which present an unusual combination of mythological, historical, and mundane scenes. The current main conservatory body, the Japanese Government Team for the Safeguarding of Angkor (the JSA) has described the temple as "the most striking expression of the baroque style" of Khmer architecture, as contrasted with the classical style ofAngkor Wat.[3]
A few shots from around the temple. The faces of Buddha faced each direction on every tower.
As with the other temples the walls were adorned with depictions of battles, gods and life.
An offering at the end of the hall.
So ends out time in Siem Reap. In retrospect I think the guide had it right, if you hit the 3 temples (Angkor, Bayon and Tah Prohm) you get a diverse view of the Cambodian culture.
Great experience.
Our destination was a women’s collective that dries water hyacinths and weaves them into mats and other products. You can read more about the Saray collective here and how their efforts are employing 30 local women.
We had lunch at their local restaurant and spent time with the women, learning to weave. They are very fast.
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What I did not know is that the water hyacinth is highly invasive and quite a problem … once I learned that I started to look around and notice, it was everywhere.
After lunch and the weaving we headed out on canoes to visit around the village. Our first stop was where they process the fish. It was amazing to see – they all worked in a cadence, the pounding of knives as they cut the fish.
The fish on the way for processing.
As we pulled into the next stop this little fellow was happy. As soon as he saw the nurses waiting to give him his vaccine (an ambush), his demeanor changed considerably. It took a few of the women to get him to the nurses.
After a few more stops around the village we jumped back in the boat and headed home, with one last visit. Our boat captain stopped off at a home (family, friends or a business partner) to pick up a few 5 gallon drums of processed fish. We were greeted by the family dog (what is it like to be a dog who lives in a floating house?)
They processed the fish so fast. 3 knife strokes per fish.
Fish loaded, we pulled away – the day complete.
A very different, insightful and educational experience. If you are in Siem Reap, highly recommended. Thanks for dropping by.
Our second day in Siem Reap involved a tour with Osmose eco-tours to a floating village. I love doing eco-tours, and this one is about seeing how the lake feeds an ecosystem of plants, animals and people.
The trip began on a boat like this.
Our captain.
The village where we launched was filled with motorbikes, loaded with fish from the mornings catch.
Bagged for transportation. The fish were so small – not sure how they skin them or are they eaten whole?
The boat had a very loud engine .. that made big waves.
As we took the 90 minute ride to the village, we saw many other boaters traveling the lake-ways.
Off in the distance, a fisherman setting his nets (the pictures are darker as I had the wrong filter with me – it was that bright out)
And a few eco-companions on the way.
We stopped near a large tree where the guide explained that the tree was 15-17m high with almost 10m of the tree currently under water. The water levels on the lake go up and down by 10m during the seasons. In the tree, we noticed a brightly colored snake having a sleep .. red means poisonous.
He never did peak his head out.
Traveling along the water the boat slowed as we entered the first of many floating villages.
Amazing to think that these homes move around with the water level .. and that they all have cell phone reception.
The village’s floating school.
Beside a few floating homes.
With the fishermen/women working on the day’s catch.
The boat picked up speed as we headed to the next village.
(Updated as I accidentally merged two posts)
I am so glad we visited this site. It would have been a huge miss had we not.
I am a big fan of TripAdvisor as it helps you understand what is really available in a city or country – especially if you want to get a little bit off the beaten path. Reading the reviews there were more than a few people who said this is a must see, filled with old Russian and a few American remnants from a terrible period in Cambodia’s history.
Everything is open to explore. Feel free to climb on, in and around them to see these decades old remnants.
Our guide was a war veteran and his tale is heartbreaking – and worth telling here for others to read.
If you have read about Pol Pot and the Khmer reign of terror you will know that millions died. Pol Pot killed anyone with an education and engaged in a mad scheme to return Cambodia to an agrarian lifestyle with the goal of eliminating Cambodia’s dependence on foreign powers who had occupied, pillaged and generally mistreated the country. Entire cities like Siem Reap were emptied and the men were rounded up to serve in the army.
He was such a target. At 14 he was supposed to be taken away to join. His family hid him to keep him from the Khmer army. At a check point he was asked if he was a boy or a girl and he accidentally answered boy. His father, knowing he was caught, began yelling at him for blurting out the wrong thing as the Khmer commander was notified.
His father begged to let his son stay as he was too young which infuriated the ruthless commander. In moments, they shot his father and then shot his mother and two sisters as they tried to collect the fathers body. A few others from their village were also killed when they engaged in the dispute.
At 14 he was taken by the Khmer, just not fathomable. He spent years on the front, escaped into Vietnam and then returned to Cambodia only to step on a land mine and lose his leg.
Abandoned to fend for himself, he was an outcast until an Australian came along and rescued him. They flew him out of the country, got him prosthetics and helped him mentally recover. But as he said, how do you ever recover? Listening to his story, it was just so unfathomable and during the Pol Pot, Khmer reign of terror a sadly common story. No one was left unaffected.
Hearing it first hand is shocking.
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Just hearing that story made the trip to this museum a must see.
Along the wall there are several buildings that house hundreds of weapons, that you can handle. Fascinating to pick up an RPG.
I cannot recommend it enough – a must see.
Every temple we travelled to in Siem Reap had some form of foreign sponsored restoration going on. Scaffolds, trucks and signs. Not insignificant undertakings.
To understand just how dramatic the change is, I took this shot from the Indian restoration of Tah Prohm, Amazing to see the work that they can do.
Great to see the international community helping maintain this important part of our collective history.
The center of Angkor Wat houses the holiest of places, up a steep set of stairs.
We were fortunate, the line was not that bad (quite short actually). From the top you have a spectacular view of the countryside.
Throughout the day our guide pointed out the restoration work that was being done. What is remarkable is that very little of this work is being paid for locally, international donors (India, Japan, France to name a few) are very active in helping the Cambodian people restore and maintain their history.
The detail on the buildings is remarkable. One can only guess at the quantity of workers and time it took.
A spectacular site that lived up to the reputation.
Many of Cambodia’s temples are overgrown, they say there are an unknown number hidden away – engulfed by nature. Ta Prohm is marked as one of the 3 temples you need to see because of the way that nature sprouts from the temple – that tree must have been 30 meters high (or higher) – a new roof for an ancient temple.
The trees have taken root everywhere over hundreds of years.
Made famous by the movie Tomb Raider (have not seen it), Ta Prohm is in the middle of restoration, in this case thanks to India.
This picture shows an example of the before (the jumble of rocks) and the after (on the right above the scaffold). Like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
A few more shots of a very beautiful and exotic temple.
A beautiful place. Of the 3 must see temples in Siem Reap, this was our favorite (yes, more than Angkor Wat). There is something mystical about the jungle intertwined through the temple.
On our first full day of touring in Siem Reap our guide said Angkor Wat in the morning – I said really? He said all of the tour companies do it the same way, off to the other temples and balloon views first (Bayon, Ta Prohm) and Angkor in the afternoon.
We took his advice and did Angkor Wat first and he was right. Sure it was busy (as it was getting into the dry season and high tourism time) but far from “busy”.
The library.
The back of the entrance.
Taking the long walk with the other tourists.
The interior is adorned with murals, often depicting fierce battles between the gods, humans and other creatures.
You can still see the remnants of paint. Areas shine on the murals where people rubbed them.
The steps to the top of the temple are quite steep. There was a woman at the entrance to the top looking at people’s clothing. If your shorts were too short, they would not let you pass.
I would agree with the first westerner who saw Angkor Wat when he said “is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world. It has towers and decoration and all the refinements which the human genius can conceive of” (1586 – Portuguese monk)
When touring a place for a quick stop. We passed by, stopping for 10 minutes to walk the terrace. (Config: Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8)
It was a place where the old Khmer held events.
The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants was used as a giant reviewing stand for public ceremonies and served as a base for the king’s grand audience hall. It has five outworks extending towards the Central Square-three in the centre and one at each end. The middle section of the retaining wall is decorated with life size garuda and lions; towards either end are the two parts of the famous parade of elephants complete with their Khmer mahouts.
The entire terrace is covered in elephant carvings.
A view along the length of the terrace.
I would have liked to get to some of the older outlying buildings, but there was no time.
I am sure that the Siem Reap area is covered with unexplored buildings.
Michael Weening: a few pictures 