Beyond the Fringe, Edinburgh is a vibrant city with a rich history and in only a few days, it is impossible to take it all in. We often jump on the Big Bus as it is a great way to get a feel for the city. These double decker tour buses are manned by a guide talks his way through the city. A few highlights of Edinburgh:

• Greyfriars Bobby, Edinburgh’s famous dog:

Greyfriars Bobby is a statue was a Skye Terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh, Scotland, after reportedly spending 14 years guarding his owner’s grave, until his own death on 14th January 1872.^[1]

Bobby belonged to John Gray, who worked for the Edinburgh City Police as a night watchman, and the two were inseparable for approximately two years.^[1] On 15 February 1858, Gray died of tuberculosis. He was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard, the graveyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk in the Old Town of Edinburgh. Bobby, who survived John Gray by 14 years, is said to have spent the rest of his life sitting on his master’s grave. A more realistic account has it that he spent a great deal of time at Gray’s grave, but that he left regularly for meals at a restaurant beside the graveyard, and may have spent colder winters in nearby houses.

In 1867, when it was pointed out that an ownerless dog should be destroyed, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir William Chambers (who was also a director of the Scottish Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), paid for a renewal of Bobby’s licence, making him the responsibility of the city council.

Bobby died in 1872 and could not be buried within the cemetery itself, since it was consecrated ground; instead he was buried just inside the gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, not far from John Gray’s grave.

• Aptly named The Last Drop, this pub is where people who had committed ghastly crimes (like stealing a pair of boots or being Protestant) were given their last meal and a whisky for the road before being hanged. Read a great review and history here.

Just down the street was another pub named after a woman who survived hanging and was allowed to live. I guess they didn’t have this chart to ensure the right drop length.

• In what can only be called misguided advertising, this statue of George IV makes him look lean, regal, a king. In fact, George IV was short and incredibly fat (5′ 4" with a 50 inch waste weighing 245lbs).  Our guide said that the only reason why his statue is up there is because he actually took the time to visit. The Times had the following comment on his passing:

There never was an individual less regretted by his fellow-creatures than this deceased king. What eye has wept for him? What heart has heaved one throb of unmercenary sorrow? … If he ever had a friend — a devoted friend in any rank of life — we protest that the name of him or her never reached us.^[57]

John O’Farrell has the following to say in his book:

George IV’s popularity never really recovered but he made little effort to improve his public image – unless you count his desperate efforts to strap himself inside an enormous fifty-inch corset. He was described by the Duke of Wellington as ‘the worst man I ever fell in with my whole life, the most selfish, the most false, the most ill-natured, the most entirely without one redeeming quality’. And then of course when he died, Wellington eulogized about his many wonderful qualities and everyone nodded in somber agreement.

Funny, Wellington’s statue is just down the way.

• We passed by Usher Hall which has a funny story. The theatre was funded by Andrew Usher who’s fortune came from the Whisky business. Ironically, he banned the sale of all alcohol within the hall.
• We had dinner at a restaurant across the street which I thought was a unique place, Gourmet Burger Kitchen. Little did I know that it is a chain. Fantastic place, minimalist decor, amazing food (the blue cheese burger went down great with a local pint).
• We did head up to Edinburgh castle, which has a rich history (primarily centred around fighting the English):

In 1296, King Edward I of England invaded Scotland, sparking the First War of Scottish Independence. Edinburgh Castle soon came under English control after a brief resistance. A large garrison was installed, 347 strong in 1300. After the death of Edward I in 1307, however, England’s control over Scotland weakened. In the spring of 1314, a surprise night attack led by Thomas Randolph, 1st Earl of Moray, recaptured the castle. It was a daring plan, involving a party of thirty hand-picked men making a difficult ascent up the north precipice and taking the garrison by surprise. Robert the Bruce immediately ordered the destruction of its defences to prevent re-occupation by the English. Shortly after, Bruce’s army secured victory at the Battle of Bannockburn.

After Bruce’s death, another dispute of the rightful heir to the throne, which had its origins in the Great Cause, broke out, leading to the Second War of Scottish Independence; that eventually caused the castle to again come under English control. Major repairs were carried out, but these proved ineffective against another assault in April 1341, this time led by William Douglas, 1st Earl of Douglas. Douglas’s party disguised as merchants bringing supplies to the garrison, and managed to drop its loads at the castle gate, preventing their closure. A larger force hidden nearby rushed to join them and the castle was ruthlessly retaken.

There is so much to see and we missed a lot, most notably Arthur’s seat. The boys saw people at the top and were instantly asking ‘Can we go climb that???’ . Would have been a fun hike. Next time.