NOT SEE, NOT SAY, NOT HEAR,

Koshin is described as a folk faith in Japan with Taoist origins:

The main Kōshin belief that survived from an original complex faith, is the concept that three worms, called Sanshi (三尸), live in everyone’s body. The Sanshi keep track of the good deeds and particularly the bad deeds of the person they inhabit. On the night called Kōshin-Machi (which happens each 60 days), while the person sleeps, the Sanshis leave the body and go to Ten-Tei(天帝), the Heavenly god, to report about the deeds of that person.

Ten-Tei will then decide to punish bad people, making them ill, shortening their lifetime and in extreme cases putting an end to their lives. Believers of Kōshin will try to live a life without bad deeds, but those who have reason to fear will try to stay awake during Kōshin nights, as the only way to prevent the Sanshi from leaving the body and reporting to Ten-Tei.

Which (of course) lead to festivals every 60 days where people attempted to stay up for the entire day to stop the worms from leaving their bodies.

Below is a very old, traditional Koshin shrine near our home.

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This faith is also affiliated with the 3 monkeys (seen in the middle bottom):

Three monkeys covering eyes, mouth and ears with their hands are the best known symbols of Kōshin faith. They are Mizaru (not see), Iwazaru (not say) and Kikazaru (not hear). It is not very clear why the three monkeys became part of Kōshin belief, but is assumed that it is because like the monkeys, the Sanshis and Ten-Tei are not to see, hear, or tell the bad deeds of a person.

Statues of Shōmen-Kongō with the three monkeys have existed in temples and shrines since the Edo era. Sometimes carved stones called Kōshin-tō were placed around a dwelling for protection. Such stones can present diverse forms, from having only Chinese characters (kanji) to including a depiction of Shōmen- Kongō with one, two or three monkeys.

So many layers to Japan’s complex history, hidden from the Gaijin.

22 FALLEN SAMURAI

Another temple near us, hidden up a long road – Kensoji temple (which has zero internet footprint and no information).

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Surrounded by a beautiful cemetery, the history makes an interesting story. Hidden in the back corner is the cemetery of the fallen 22, who attempted an uprising in 1936 and are often celebrated by the anti-foreigner, nationalistic Japan parties.

The February 26 Incident (二・二六事件 Niniroku Jiken?) (also known as the 2-26 Incident) was an attempted coup d’état in Japan on 26 February 1936. It was organized by a group of young Imperial Japanese Army (IJA) officers with the goal of purging the government and military leadership of their factional rivals and ideological opponents.

Although the rebels succeeded in assassinating several leading officials and in occupying the government center of Tokyo, they failed to assassinate Prime Minister Keisuke Okada or secure control of the Imperial Palace. Their supporters in the army made attempts to capitalize on their actions, but divisions within the military, combined with Imperial anger at the coup, meant they were unable to achieve a change of government. Facing overwhelming opposition as the army moved against them, the rebels surrendered on 29 February.[3]

Unlike earlier examples of political violence by young officers, the coup attempt had severe consequences. After a series of closed trials, 19 of the uprising’s leaders were executed for mutiny and another 40 imprisoned. The radical Kōdō-ha faction lost its influence within the army, the period of “government by assassination” came to a close, and the military increased its control over the civilian government.

If you read the entire background, it is the classic story of the under-privileged rising up against ruling class, in this case coloured by a nationalistic zeal, an Emperor, westerners and socialism. I cannot help but sympathize with the meritocracy elements of their campaign even if it is at odds with their allegiance to the Emperor.

Their well tended grave. Luckily, there were not ultra-nationalists at the site to protest our being there.

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The grave across from this one, with beautiful blooming Azaleas.

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The other interesting thing about the site is the state of the original cemetery. Fenced off and difficult to see, the original cemetery is surrounded by monuments to the elements and the (rich) family entombed. However, the site has fallen into disrepair which seems at odds with the Japanese respect for ancestors.

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Of note, the monuments are all individual pieces of stone, balanced on top of each other. Only a few have fallen over during the various earthquakes. A testament to 1,000 year old craftsmanship.

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An interesting hidden find.

DRAGON TEMPLE

Near our apartment is a small temple of significance, a temple dedicated to the dragon and the harvest, Hiroo Inari Jinja.

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Located on a side street near Hiroo station, tucked under hundred year old trees.

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The courtyard houses the temple building and several smaller shrines.

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Including the chozuya, for purifying yourself before entering the shrine.

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I liked this request outside the temple …

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As mentioned, it is a dragon temple. Etched into the wooden roof is the most magnificent dragon. Step to a different side and the entire picture changes.

It is said that Inari (the god of harvests) was invoked as the guardian deity of the Shogun�fs villa, Azabu Fujimi Goten, during the Genroku period (1688-1703). It was formerly called Fujimi Inari or Chitose-dera Inari. The dragon drawn on seven consecutive panels on the main hall�fs ceiling is the final Japanese-style painting of the great master Takahashi Yuichi. Three towers dedicated to the repose of the souls of the departed (Minato City Cultural Assets) stand by a stone moat and the three monkeys (�gSee no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil�h) are carved on the front.

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And more dragons carved into the entrance.

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Amazing to find out what is tucked around a corner. A city full of hidden treasures.

ORDERLY JAPAN

The society is one of order and it is best illustrated in the parking lot of a hospital. Hundreds of cars and not a single car facing nose in. Every single person backed in.

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A little different than the chaos of driving and parking in the UK.

THE FIRST AMERICAN EMBASSY, TOKYO

The American government set up in one of Tokyo’s oldest temples, Zenpuku-ji temple, after the signing of the first commerce agreement in 1859.

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They have a monument set up for Townsend Harris who played a pivotal role in Japanese – US relationships. Our guide Lilly provided colour to his life. While he did great things for the countries, he did it while ruining the life of a poor Japanese woman. She was a serving girl and in love with a carpenter (as the story goes), but Townsend wanted her for himself. Forced by the Japanese government to spend time with Townsend (either to improve relations between the countries or as a spy), she was forced to become his mistress only to be discarded when he left Japan;

She was labelled a “Toujin” (mistress of a foreigner), though she was not a mistress like “Chocho-san“.

Becoming a mistress of Western men was regarded as shame and Kichi was despised as “Toujin”. The disdain and prejudice of the society disturbed her seriously and she gradually indulged in alcohol. She could not live a peaceful family life with her beloved Tsurumatsu. She ruined a restaurant presented by a sympathetic patron and could not run a hair salon in Shimoda due to the disdain of local people. In her 40s, Kichi became homeless and killed herself by jumping into the Inouzawa River.
Toujin Okichi became a heroin of popular novels and her stories were staged many times. Though the truth still remains a mystery, her story was interpreted in various ways and exploited as a tourist attraction.

Read more here. The relationships was also incorrectly romanticized in a John Wayne movie.

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As with all shrines, a cemetery accompanies it. Right beside the shrine is the grave of Fukuzawa Yukichi, the man on the 10,000 Y note ($100).

Fukuzawa Yukichi (福澤 諭吉?, January 10, 1835 – February 3, 1901) was a Japanese author, Enlightenment writer, teacher, translator, entrepreneurand journalist who founded Keio-Gijuku University, the newspaper Jiji-Shinpo and the Institute for Study of Infectious Diseases. His ideas about government and social institutions made a lasting impression on a rapidly changing Japan during the Meiji Era. He is regarded as one of the founders of modern Japan. He is called a Japanese Voltaire.

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It is also home to the oldest ginko tree in Tokyo with a girth of 10m and estimated age of 800+ years.

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As one would expect, the cemetery is well tended with people decorating the statues and leaving behind flowers, offerings and other remembrances to honour the departed.

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An interesting tour. Thanks for dropping by.

A TWIG FENCE

On a street in Tokyo, surrounding a beautiful temple.

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Different. Not something I would have expected to see in the city.

HOW TO ROB IN THE EDO PERIOD

Rich families would keep their valuables in a building like this.

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Away from the main house, lacking windows, big metal locked doors and often behind the gates.

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One would think it was a good plan. The problem? Thieved learned that in the soft Japanese soil it is easy to dig your way in.

TODAY’s JAPANESE ENGLISH

Like I said before, when you are walking through Tokyo, you need to look up.

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I have no idea why this one caught my eye in passing. I was walking from lunch and noticed the print on the front of this dress. Who/what is Felicity Catch and why grammar do time so bad?

 

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And to answer your question: NO. My Japanese is not improving as evidenced by a recent conversation:

“I got this amazing sparking sake from Meidi-ya” (I pronounced meedie-ya)

“Where?”

“meedie-ya. You know the grocery store”

Laughs. “Oh you mean (pronounces it right). You have been saying that for a month and I had no idea what you were talking about”

The only good thing, I don’t write anything down in Japanese.

THE SPRING THAT SAVED LIVES

In the Azabu-Juban there is a small spring, bubbling away. This little spring has saved thousands of lives during earthquakes, fires and bombings. Such an innocuous site .. responsible for so many.

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EXPLORING THE TOKYO STREETS

On a recent tour, near this street we heard all about Juzo Itami.

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Standing at the bottom of the building where he “committed suicide”, we heard the story about how this Japanese film maker made fun of the establishment and organized crime:

On May 22, 1992, six days after the release of his anti-yakuza satire Minbō no Onna, Itami was attacked, beaten, and slashed on the face by five members of the Goto-gumi, a Shizuoka-based yakuza clan, who were angry at Itami’s film’s portrayal of yakuza members as craven, dishonorable bullies. This attack led to a government crackdown on the yakuza. His subsequent stay in a hospital inspired his next film Daibyonin, a grim satire on the Japanese health system.

Looking down the alley, our guide explained his “death”:

He purportedly committed suicide on December 20, 1997[1] in Tokyo, by leaping from the roof of the building where his office was located, after a sex scandal he was allegedly involved in was picked up by the press. The suicide letter he reportedly left behind denied any involvement in such an affair.

Many consider his death suspicious. Citing unnamed sources, Jake Adelstein of Yomiuri Shimbun, who wrote a number of articles dealing with Japanese yakuza, directly accused Goto of murder. Adelstein stated that, according to his sources in the Japanese underworld, Juzo Itami was planning a new movie about Goto’s yakuza faction and its relationship with the religious groupSōka Gakkai and that “A gang of five of his people grabbed Itami and made him jump off a rooftop at gunpoint. That’s how he committed suicide.” According to Adelstein, Itami had said that his wife was aware of his alleged affair and that Itami’s purported suicide note was typed on a word processor.[2] At the time, the police treated it as a possible homicide. Itami’s surviving family have never publicly commented on the circumstances surrounding his death.

We continued walking. I love the way that Japanese streets are filled with people’s pots filled with flowers and bushes. They may not have a yard, but they are trying.

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In some cases, the grasses are overgrowing. An oddity in Japan. Why would someone leave their motorcycle like that? (even if it is broken).

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Passing this shop I looked in, there was barely any room to move … He/she is certainly not pressing any clothes.

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As we turned a corner our guide explained that the area we were in used to be a slum in Tokyo. The locals were cleaning it up and banding together, trying to stop developers who were buying up the buildings with a goal of tearing it all down and putting up high rises.

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Down a stairwell was a tiny little statue, dedicated to a site where something happened .. at some point in history. Perhaps someone fell down the stairs and died, or an incident happened here. That history is lost to us gaijin, but it was amazing to see the statue hidden between the buildings.

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And in every Tokyo cement crack, something is trying to grow.

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SMALL BUSINESS

Loved that this guy was out there drumming up some business in front of his store.

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Now that is initiative.

TOKYO POLICE

There are a LOT of police in Tokyo. I mean a LOT. Seems like every few blocks you run into a group of them. You don’t see many police cars and the one time that I was flagged down, it was the police officer stepping onto the road.

Perhaps one of the reasons why Tokyo is so safe (although I think it is more cultural, than due to police presence).

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I am always driving past these fellows and I have yet to figure out what they do. They just stare at the passing cars, sometimes a whistle in their mouth just waiting to be blown. At other times holding their walkie-talkie and watching the traffic drive by.

Always staring. Never moving. I don’t understand. (smile)

LOVE HOTELS

How would you like to be the poor unfortunate souls living next to this monstrosity with it’s medieval flair?

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Called a “love hotel” these feeders of the unseemly Japanese underbelly are quite common.

A love hotel is a type of short-stay hotel found around the world operated primarily for the purpose of allowing couples privacy for sexual activities. The name originates from “Hotel Love” in Osaka which was built in 1968 and had a rotating sign.

This one is for the more “adventurous”. We were walking past it on a tour and I could not help but notice the nice grandmotherly woman on the other side of the street standing in her door.

How would you like to look at this every day? (it is in quite a nice neighbourhood). Supposedly there is a movement afoot to eject them.

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Is the name some form of play on words?

The discrete front entrance.

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Last shot. I wondered, is the new BMW a client or the owner?

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ABANDONED IN TOKYO

There are a surprising number of abandoned buildings in Tokyo. On a recent tour we were told that this happens when something “bad” happens in a building. People find out and do not want to live there.

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In this case, something bad happened about 10 years ago … and no one has lived there since, except the every expanding vines.

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EXPAT CURRENCY ADVICE

 

Lesson #1: on currency

When we first moved to the UK I was advised to keep currency in whatever location you were planning to live in long term. I did not listen, and we moved some money with us from Canada to the UK.

Along came the economic crash, a 30% decline in the GBP and a painful lesson when we moved that money back to Canada.

This time around we opened up a multi-currency account and have kept money in the currency that it was originally “created”, only transferring between currencies when needed. A fortunate thing as the Japanese Yen has declined 25% against the Canadian/US dollar since we arrived.

Lesson #2: on moving currency

If you are moving a lot of money and planning on moving permanently, you are not an expat and this isn’t for you.

When we moved to Tokyo I was getting some pretty annoying “wire transfer” charges. Annoying is a euphemism for large. I switched to using checks. Simply deposit the check from your home country, pay a nominal fee, and wait (in my case, it magically leaves my Canadian account in 3 days but takes 28 days to appear in Japan). A flat rate and much lower cost.

Hopefully, these lessons will help a fellow expat.

A COUPLE BALI BEACH SHOTS

My last. A beautiful shoreline.

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The pink caught my eye.

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The stairs lead to … ?

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A wonderful trip.

TOKYO MOONRISE

It was a clear night and interesting to watch the full moon rise.

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JAPAN COSTCO

Put this one in the “Japan contradiction” column. In a society which is very rules orientated, Costco is an interesting anomaly.

In Canada, the opening time is 9am or 10am (If I remember correctly) and they are pretty regimented about that time. They do not open a minute early. Very rules orientated.

In Japan, the opening time is fluid. While the official opening time is 10am, this Saturday it was opened before 9. Depends on when they have finished loading the shelves and the length of the queue out front.

One of those “scratch your head” ones and as an aside, I think it is great.

WHY THE OLD POSTS?

If you are follower of the blog, apologies. You will see a whole bunch of posts showing up that are old.

When they transferred my blog from Live to WordPress (never should have used Windows Live Spaces) they put all old posts in “pending”. I am starting to go through them and put them back out there as a cousin is thinking about going into Sales and those posts are in the pending. They will show according to the original publishing date.

Just an FYI.

WHAT LURKS BENEATH

As the tide went out on the beach in Nusa Dua, it provided access to the life below. Our first sight was this urchin.

Urchins are usually nasty black things and very painful. We easily steered clear of many in the shallow water, but through the seaweed I saw this fellow. I have never seen anything like it and if colour indicated a warning, this must be a very dangerous urchin.

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Never seen anything like it. Having a 70-200m lens on meant that I didn’t have to get too close.

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One more shot, distorted by the sun cutting the water. As I got closer with the lens it moved to protect the center.

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I have no idea what this is .. but it looks like a cucumber or perhaps some sort of worm.

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This millipede was BIG (and fast). He disappeared in seconds.

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A lot of legs …

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He/she/it was right beside the crabs. Spot the 3 crabs.

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Finishing off with a few beautiful color shots, peaking out from under the water.

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Amazing natural colors of this anemone, an inch under the water.

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It was really hard to get shots of these corals as they were in shallow water and it kept ebbing and flowing.

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A moment later I caught the water coming in.

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How can I not finish with a starfish.

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It was fun to explore the shore.

3 SHOTS OF A BALINESE FISHERMAN

We stayed at the Westin in Nusa Dua in Bali and you look out on quite a nice ocean view.

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While eating lunch I saw this fellow wading out into the surf. I happened to have my 70-200mm lens on the 5D so I took a walk to down to observe. 3 shots …

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Love the hat.

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At the beach the tide slow recedes through the day revealing that which you were swimming over.

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You can walk for 100’s of meters to the edge and the reef. It was fun to see what lurked below … and surprising. (Next post).

JAPANESE BAD BOY

Japan and Canada appear to have a very different view of what constitutes a rough and tumble “bad boy”. In Canada, that would be a Marlon Brando type or a hockey player. Perhaps a UFC fighter.

Bad Boy Junior Cigano Dos Santos UFC 117 Walkout Tshirt

This is the Japanese bad boy (you must always remember to look up when in Tokyo).

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(bottom right). Perhaps they took it literally and meant “bad boys” due to their over-use of hair gel and feminine disposition? Or perhaps they are bad boys because no boy band should number more than 5 (I counted 12). Perhaps the 3 in front are the bad boys as they did not get the pre-photo shoot memo on only wearing white.

Lost in translation …  Never ceases to make me smile.

MY FAVORITE APP

My favourite app for the iPad is Zinio, the magazine reader. I don’t have a single paper magazine subscription left (living in Tokyo killed that). Flipboard is a close second, but the content is hit or miss and I enjoy paying for this content.

With a hectic travel, work and family schedule I find myself reading more and more magazine content as it allows me to dive in and out. The content is very targeted, allowing me to read based upon my particular mood. Feel like learning, HBR. Gadget minded … T3. Love the application.

The interesting thing is that in the era of massive decline of the print industry, I have never had so many magazine subscriptions or spent so much money in my life. In the past, I was maxed out at 2 or 3 – now I have 12. A testament to usability and digital convenience.

Here is my Zinio list, in no particular order:

  • Harvard Business Review
  • Wired
  • Mental Floss
  • Esquire
  • Men’s Journal
  • Inc.
  • Fast Company
  • GEO
  • PC Magazine
  • geek
  • Popular Science
  • T3

My only gripe? I wish I was reading it on a Samsung Android 10 inch Note, not our corporate standard … The iPad.

I miss my Samsung tablet.

OBSERVED AROUND TOKYO

Mark your calendar. I am saving up for this day (actually, from Bali)

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In Hong Kong they build buildings with bamboo scaffolds. In Canada, you climb up the sides of a scaffold. In Japan .. it as one would expect.

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Amazing how this product looks suspiciously similar to the Dyson innovation. By Toto Japan. Mitsubishi has one too.

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As seen in a Japanese parking lot. I have been warned, in a rather contradictory manner.

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FUJI-SAN, HELLO

We are moving offices in a few months. The great view of Mt. Fuji will be replaced by a different view.

Fortunately, Fuji-san finally came out and I happened to have my camera (Configuration: Canon 5D Mark III, 50mm f/1.2, shot handheld HDR).

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The rest of the view. At the bottom is a huge cemetery. I need to get there.

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If you look into the background, you will notice that Tokyo is ringed by mountains.

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I will miss the sunsets ……

TOKYO UMBRELLAS

Tokyo is a place of umbrellas. If not for the rain (it is pseudo-tropical), for the sun; in which case they call them parasols and charge a lot more money.

Awhile back we were stuck in a rainstorm in Shibuya. I did not have my camera with me and have vowed that one day, I will get back to a very specific alley to get a shot in the rain as it was an amazing site.

That being said, a few shots in a similar vein, from the same area but on the wrong street (smile).

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The trees have an interesting texture in black and white.

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At a crossing. Not “the” crossing. But one of them.

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And one oddity. I don’t know if I would buy from this shop. I found the name a bit creepy.

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I WALKED A TOKYO ALLEY

The other day I wanted to see something different, so I walked a different way home. The best sight was this wall, covered in flowers; Canon 5D Mark III with 50mm f/1.2 in hand.

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Up close.

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I made a quick stop to pick up some sparkling sake at this shop. I have become a big fan of sparkling sake over the last couple weeks. It is a very light summer drink and perfect for sitting out on a deck or in a backyard with a low alcohol content (5%ish).

Reminds me of the wonderful sparkling cider that we happened across in Normandy.

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To get to the cider I had to walk down this stairwell which was a case of the “old” and the “new”. On one side was a gleaming metal wall (protecting a construction site), on the other an old wall with a very old stone stairwell. It wasn’t until afterwards that I noticed the mirror at the top … in case you were walking around the corner too fast (smile).

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One more old and new.

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An interesting stroll. Need to do that more often.

Thanks for dropping by.

A FEW TOKYO FLOWERS ON THE STREET

The sun is here.

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A few strong climbing roses.

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On a different tangent, they have the oddest names for hair salons in Tokyo. I have yet to figure out how these two words relate to cutting hair (smile).

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WHERE IS THE PRIVATIZE CBC PETITION?

I received this the other day:

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I would sign a petition to privatize the CBC. It is an out-dated institution where tax funding produces primarily low grade content in an inefficient manner … just like where the idea came from.

$1B better spent elsewhere.

ONLY IN TOKYO: THE BASEBALL WARMUP

The Tokyo baseball pre-game workout in Minato-ku.

 

I cannot imagine standing in a circle, holding hands and bouncing up and down to the cadence of a random teammate with people on my hockey team … ever.

TOKYO AZALIAS

Once the cherry and plum blossoms are gone, the Japanese cities explode with Azaleas. They are everywhere. 5 shots from around town via my Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 50mm f/1.2.

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High on an embassy wall.

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After the rain.

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SEINFELD AND THIS GENERATION

The problem in my house is that I made ONE mistake with regard to movies/TV and I cannot live it down. That mistake:

“Come on. I remember this movie. It is amazing. It was the first of it’s kind. You have to watch the original TRON with me”

I can admit I was wrong and I was VERY wrong. My rose coloured view of TRON has been tainted by age, time; remembering my youth and the beginning of science fiction movies.

Unfortunately, it was awful. The acting is bad and the effects may have been great for the early 80’s, but they just look bad now. So in our house whenever I suggest anything that is older than 5 years I get the “Seriously? You told us TRON was good and look how that turned out”.

Which brings me to Seinfeld. I am going to try it with my teenage boys, to see if it is dated or still funny. I know that reading The Economics of Seinfeld still makes me laugh. I saw Jerry Seinfeld at a charity event a year ago and it was great. I just don’t know how it will turn out.

You tell me, will it work or am I making another TRON level mistake?

ONLY IN TOKYO: SERIOUSLY

Sure, you can find “different” things in those out of the way shops in North America. What we would consider “different” in Canada is the mundane in Japan, even common.

At Tokyu Hands (best described as a big craft, DYI and everything in between store), you wander from the mundane to unique in moments.

On a Sunday we had to get craft supplies for my son’s science project. Here are a few things that caught my eye (I had my 5D with me as we were heading over to Yoyogi afterwards).

The street outside the store. Busy, busy.

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This diorama of a kitchen is valued at …. wait for it … $3500. You can almost smell the rice. Who would buy it? Not sure. Remarkable detail.

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This one made me laugh out loud. After all, how can marketing “Girl und Panzer” not be a winner? Right? (far right side of box in English)

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Who feels it necessary to buy these for the house? Not sure. But they are “Home Sign’(s).

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Japanese people LOVE their dogs. I mean LOVE. So much so, that they dress them up non-stop. For that special pooch in your life, look not farther than Tokyu Hands my friends.

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Check out
http://doggiespotting.org
for some great Tokyo dog shots and their crazy outfits.

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I am not sure why you would buy these coloured specimens, but there is lots of choice .. although they are not cheap. Our boys were looking at the bottom shelf, which had the $400 specimens.

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This is from the popular mobile game Touch Detective Mushroom Garden. I found it disturbing.

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Always an adventure.

A BALINESE TRADITIONAL HOME

Through the gate lies tradition. This little outpost has a group of people living the “old way”. I do not know the difference from others as we did not have an opportunity to see how contemporary Balinese live, but here are a few shots. (Canon 5D Mark III, armed with my 28-70mm f/2.8).

Through every gate lies a new visual experience.

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Of course, a family temple. Decorated and ready for a festival.

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A simple shot. A Balinese home.

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He smiled as he carved.

ONE MORE BALI TEMPLE

In the middle of the country, in a little town with a name I did not know. Just another town along the road and another breathtaking temple, built by locals over hundreds of years. Famous? No. Breathtaking? Yes.

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A lot of the gates had lions. I wonder why?

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The owner of this scooter was no where to be seen. Because it was about to rain again … hard.

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This shot gives you a sense of this rural Balinese village temple. It is huge and multi-sectioned .. and yes, about to rain.

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Deity carvings were everywhere.

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And many of the carvings were decorated.

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The intricacies of this door are remarkable.

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It was the entrance on this kori agung gate (roofed) with a candi bentar gate beside it (right).

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And the detail across the temple caught the eye at every turn.

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They had not gotten out all of the decorations yet, but were starting.

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Truly amazing. So much care and beauty .. in a remote location. One of a thousand temples, that will never be famous.

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Glad we stopped. And thanks for stopping by.

BEST WAY TO FIND FLIGHTS

Our family is not heading back to Canada this summer. Instead we are touring around Japan and through Asia, with a few trips booked already (Guam, Palau (I am crazy excited about this island) and Thailand is almost booked).

When we lived in England we had a great expat travel coordinator who booked up all of the trips as they get complex when booking excursions, tour guides, cars, etc. In Japan, no luck due to the language so I have become “Family travel booker”. It is not for the faint of heart requiring a lot of work.

TripAdvisor is my go-to guide for locations as well as reaching out across the personal network for opinions. But what has continued to be a real pain is booking flights. When you are traveling from A to B and it is not a simple connection, it gets very complex and I have spent many hours on airline websites not getting the right times or connections until I found this website: Aviability. While it doesn’t give you a “spread of options” on flights across a range of days, it does narrow down options when flying to remote locations like Palau (helped me find out that Delta is the only direct flight).

Between Aviability and Expedia, finding flights has gotten a lot easier.

TO VISIT A BALI TEMPLE

As mentioned, Bali is filled with temples. It is a Hindu province in a predominantly Muslim Indonesia. The notion of the Balinese temple is very different than the traditional Christian North American or European geography, where there is a church in a small village. In Bali, temples are every few meters.

There are large temples, small temples, village temples, temples near bridges, temples in the middle of the jungle, temples in homes. They are everywhere. We had selected Gunung Kawi as the temple we would visit.

It was getting later in the day and as we approached it started to rain. Hope was high that it would pass. Our driver explained what to do; you must acquire a sarong which can be rented at the temple for a dollar or buy one. We made our way to the entrance and were accosted by some very motivated sellers. $15 later we had 4 very nice sarongs. There are very strict on this cultural tradition. Configuration: Canon 5D Mark III and 28-70mm f/2.8.

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Alas, the weather was not cooperating. It rained harder.

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We made our way down to the temple (275 steps) … and then after a wait, headed back. It was not lifting. We were at the end of the day and began our trek home. After 30 minutes the rain lifted and we stopped as a “temple” was on the to-do list. This time the bathing temple, 9th century Goa Gajah:

At the façade of the cave is a relief of various menacing creatures and demons carved right into the rock at the cave entrance. The primary figure was once thought to be an elephant, hence the nickname Elephant Cave. The site is mentioned in the Javanese poem Desawarnana written in 1365. An extensive bathing place on the site was not excavated until the 1950s.[2] These appear to have been built to ward off evil spirits.

The weather cooperated.

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As a Canadian I always marvel at the age of things. This temple is very old.

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A step down to the water.

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The mouth to the elephant cave, a sanctuary.

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We did not linger. The storm had caught up …….

BESIDE A BALI ROAD

As I mentioned in a previous post, driving in Bali is different than in South American countries. In Bali every meter has some form of life jammed into it. I don’t know how to describe the press of humanity, at every corner and every meter. We just stared out the window and watched as scene after scene passed by. A few observations ….

You would see bottles of Vodka or other large glass alcohol containers at the front of many stores. It is not Vodka, it is petrol. I saw very few gas stations except in the more modern towns. Correction, these are the gas stations.

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As in most 3rd world countries, their use of the scooter was impressive.

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And helmets were discretionary, as were the number of passengers.

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Surprised to see a little bit of Canada, on a remote road. Life insurance anyone?

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The shops are visually fascinating with ornate carvings, huge pieces of wood for tables and the most amazing doors.

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We were feeling extra safe at our hotel (Westin Nusa Dua) as there was a big conference going on. There were military and police everywhere.

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I understand that a few different Presidents were in town, with impressive motorcades.

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One morning we took a walk outside of the tourist campus (As you can see above, very clean and well manicured). The economic collapse has hit Bali also.

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I stopped at this abandoned shopping complex to take a few shots.

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Things are tough all over.

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HINDU FESTIVAL OF GALUNGAN

As we drove through the countryside of Bali we watched the people preparing for the Hindu festival of Galungan. Our driver explained that this festival is as important to the Hindu’s as Christmas is to Christians.

Galungan marks the beginning of the most important recurring religious ceremonies. The spirits of deceased relatives who have died and been cremated return to visit their former homes, and the current inhabitants have a responsibility to be hospitable through prayers and offerings. The most obvious sign of the celebrations are the penjor – bamboo poles weighed down by offerings suspended at the end. These can be seen by the side of roads. A number of days around the Kuningan day itself have special names, with particular activities being organized.[2]

Driving through Bali is very different than in South/Central America. It seems like every meter along the road was filled with homes, villages and shops; all preparing for the big festival.

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All along the roads were these ornate decorations, lining the way while hundreds of people laboured in front of their homes to make them.

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This temple was across from the coffee plantation.

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When I looked at this temple I thought “wow, it must be a special place”. But my perception was wrong, it was no more special than thousands of other Hindu temples that are scattered everywhere.

The Balinese take their temples seriously, spending copious amounts on building temples everywhere; on roads, attached to villages, in the centre of villages, randomly located in a remote jungle location or in their homes, as the quality of the temple in your home is a statement of wealth.

This spectacular and ornate temple was no different than the others.

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And it was unlocked, welcoming any visitors. Too bad it was raining or I would have gone in.

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A JAPANESE FIREDRILL

A few weeks ago we were notified of a fire drill that would happen in our apartment building. In Canada (or anywhere else), a fire drill involves a bell ringing, walking outside and then back in.

Not in Tokyo. In Tokyo it is a major event. The fire department arrives with a fire truck and what looked like half of the fire department. They walk us through what to do during a fire or earthquake and then walk us through how to use the fire extinguishers. The little kids in the building JUMPED at the chance to try them out.

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When it comes to process and preparation, no one matches the Japanese. After marvelling at their preparation, I could not help but feel better prepared. Although, I was disappointed that they didn’t bring the earthquake simulation truck.

A BABY ELEPHANT

A few days before we had arrived at the Elephant Safari Park, a baby was born. She was shy.

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I had to wait around for 5 minutes before she finally sneaked out for a few minutes from her mother’s protective care. She walked with a wobble (smile).

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Took one look and trotted back to her mom.

AN ELEPHANTS EYES

The elephant has the most beautiful eyes.

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There is a soul piercing intelligence peering back, as you stare deep into their eyes.

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Beautiful.

ELEPHANT SAFARI PARK

There are two types of parks in Bali, the larger zoo-like park and the more remote Elephant Safari Park.

We chose the second. The notion of elephants in captivity is a tough one, but the facility covers their conservation focus throughout their brochures and website.  For animals that would love to be free but are facing extinction and an ever shrinking habitat, this becomes a second best choice.

The facility is beautiful, clean and they clearly take good care of the elephants.

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As with everything in this country, the North American notions of “behind the glass” and “at a safe distance” are not in play. At the restaurant you stand behind a waist high fence and get the opportunity to greet the elephants.

It was a moving experience to stand at the foot of such a huge, and majestic animal.

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This shot pretty much say it all. I was in awe.

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What a truly unique place. To stand beside such a beautiful creature is a true privilege.

SHARK FIN SOUP

Different cultures have different traditions. I passed this sign the other day in Roppongi Hills and stopped short.

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If you have not heard about the process of shark finning, read about it here. A terrible, cruel thing where they catch the shark, cut off it’s fins while it is still alive and then throw it back into the ocean to die a horrible, painful death.

If you are not convinced that this is truly barbaric, this 2 minute video should be enough to turn you off shark fin soup for good. Those big, bad, terrible sharks are disappearing at a rate of 250,000 a day through fishing, finning and as collateral damage from commercial fishing and face extinction if we don’t do something. How will the ocean ecosystem change if one of their top predators disappears?

Barbaric. But then so is tying a dog outside all year long and never giving it attention.

“Man is the cruellest animal.”  Friedrich Nietzsche

I won’t be eating there .. ever.

Please.. Pass it on.

A TAXI IN ASIA

This fellow had it all going on. He was driving barefoot, had things dangling everywhere in the taxi, 2 CB radios and no less than 10 cell phones; not a single one manufactured after 2007 or 2008.

I had gotten into quite an eclectic taxi.

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I smiled when I looked over the seat. He had a lot of things plugged in.

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A JAPANESE SENSE OF HONOUR

As I have mentioned before, the Japanese culture is one of poles – the very ahead and the very behind.

The sense of honour in Japan is one for the “very good” column and last week I gained some first hand insight. To understand the business culture of Japan you need to understand what happened after World War II, as the US and Japan partnered to rebuild the country, companies came together to rebuild in the form of Keiretsu’s. Via.

Keiretsu are groups of companies that work together, trying not to compete with one another and cooperating in order to make more money together. After many years of this sort of collaboration, Toyota has become the world’s number one automobile company. Toyota’s lead is so strong it made five times more money in 2006 than the sum of the profits made by its eight most direct competitors.

Over the six big keiretsu (each of them controlled by one important bank) is the MITI (Ministry of International Trade and Industry). The MITI is considered the ministry with greatest direct influence over the country’s economy, because it has the standing to give direct orders to certain keiretsu, asking them to double their production for the following months or to help this or that sector come out of a crisis.

In practice, the Japanese companies work together and often talk about the greater good. They will compete, but at their core they think about their country and the success of all.

To illustrate, I was speaking with an executive from a large Japanese manufacturer and I mentioned that I owned many of their products but had also bought an “add-on” from one of their competitors. His response was surprising. He thanked me for buying their products and encouraged me to buy his competitors products.

Why? Because that company had a factory in the earthquake stricken Japanese north and had decided to keep their factory open to support the people of the region. It was a very honourable thing to do, with a great leader who make great products. He was very happy that I had bought their products.

In that way, we can learn much from the Japanese. Their sense of the group over the individual is admirable.image

TOKYO SKYLINE

A few shots of Tokyo a week ago. Spring is upon us but it cannot decide if it wants to be warm, cool, cloudy or raining. Handheld HDRs via Canon 5D Mark III with 70-200mm f/2.8.

Makes interesting viewing out the window.

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It wasn’t raining, but it was foggy. I don’t know why I woke up, but I took this shot at 2AM.

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The sunset against the clouds.

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I work in that office .. for a few more months.

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I threw my 2X extender on to get this shot (handheld).

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Loved looking at this lonely cloud.

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A few hours later, it was raining.

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Thanks for dropping by.

A YOUNG MAN IN A BEIJING ELEVATOR

I was in the elevator at the Westin in Beijing the other day and looked over to see this young man standing beside me.

It was clear he was right out of college (or a couple years out), Tumi bag in hand (Excellent choice, mine is 10 years old and still looks new despite 1M miles) and heading out for the day. I had to ask …

He was recruited by Boston Consulting out of University, lives in Shanghai and is working in China.

For the majority of people in this world they don’t achieve their full potential simply because they cannot see what is possible. I did not understand that fully until my mid-20s. The only guidance I was every given is “You must go to University”, nothing else.

So each time, the boundaries would be pushed and it was big, open territory. For many, it is like the elephant and the rope.

As a man was passing the elephants, he suddenly stopped, confused by the fact that these huge creatures were being held by only a small rope tied to their front leg. No chains, no cages. It was obvious that the elephants could, at anytime, break away from their bonds but for some reason, they did not.

He saw a trainer nearby and asked why these animals just stood there and made no attempt to get away. “Well,” trainer said, “when they are very young and much smaller we use the same size rope to tie them and, at that age, it’s enough to hold them. As they grow up, they are conditioned to believe they cannot break away. They believe the rope can still hold them, so they never try to break free.”

Anything is possible. You just have to envision it, build a plan and execute. Failure along the way is inevitable. Nothing worthwhile is easy.

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But anything is possible in this world. Our world is flat; video conferencing via Skype, cheap flights to anywhere, Google Translate ….. It gets easier to connect globally every day.

Something our children have learned first hand. It will be interesting to see what they choose to do with that. Hopefully it involves an elevator in China.

I would be interested to hear the stories of others ….

KOPI LUWAK COFFEE, PT II: BEST COFFEE?

Is it the best coffee?

The prices would indicate that it needs to be. At the plantation 200g of coffee is $100USD. In town, 50g of beans is $150USD.

It is a great experience on the farm, starting with a full tasting of their coffees, tea and cocoa. There is a pineapple coffee, and a host of others topped off with amazing cocoa.

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They then ask if you would like to buy a cup of Civet coffee for $5USD a glass. It struck me as humorous that people pay $5 multi-times a day for a simple Starbucks. We ordered 3. They bring out a “made in Japan” coffee brewing system, that looks intriguing to me.

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The water slowly moves up into the container above and then filters back down.

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The pour.

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I normally drink my coffee with a little cream and honey.

In this case, it seemed heresy to try it with something in it, so I drank the Civet coffee straight up. It was smooth, bold and surprisingly, without any bitter aftertaste.

Is it the best coffee in the world? It might just be.

I am curious what others think .. have you had it? Do you consider it the world’s best coffee bean? If not .. what is?

Thanks for dropping in.

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